Tag Archive | free pattern

Granny’s Hugs Toddler Hat FREE PATTERN

20170609_112100

This hat will fit a toddler, about the ages 2 1/2 years old to 4 or 5 years old. It would be best to measure the child’s head before setting down to making this hat. It was made according to my daughter’s head size (and the amount of hair she has), which is about 19 inches in circumference. It was also originally intended to be a toddler sized slouchy hat, but with my daughter’s afro it’s more of a beanie (photos of her wearing it are at the end of this written pattern). She is 2 1/2 years old. If you would like to make the hat “slouchier”, simply add a few extra rounds of clusters before making the ribbed cuff. Also, I must note, that the pattern as written takes almost exactly 1 full skein of yarn (170 yards). If you make the hat longer, you will need to buy 2 skeins of yarn.

Granny’s Hugs Toddler Hat Pattern

© 2017 Amanda Bryant

Materials:

1 skein Vanna’s Choice Lion Brand medium weight 100% acrylic yarn (3.5 oz/100 g; 170 yards/156 meters) Color: Periwinkle

6 mm crochet hook

yarn needle to weave in ends

Gauge: 4 clusters and 4 ch-3’s= 4 inches; 3 rounds of clusters= 2 inches

Finished Measurements: approx. 18 inches circumference unstretched and 8 1/2 inches long

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

ch- chain

sl st- slip stitch

beg cl- beginning cluster:  Beg Cl- ch 2, (yo and insert hook into st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) 4 times, yo and pull through all 5 loops on the hook

cl- cluster: Cl- (yo, insert hook into st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) 5 times, yo and pull through all 6 loops on the hook

yo- yarn over

bpdc- back post double crochet

fpdc- front post double crochet

 

Instructions:

Make a magic ring,

Round 1- Make a beg cl, ch 3, (cl, ch 3) 5 times, join to the top of the beg cl with a sl st (6 cl and 6 ch-3 sps)

Round 2- sl st into the first ch-3 sp, (beg cl, ch 3, cl) in the 1st ch-3 sp, <ch 3, (cl, ch3, cl) in the next ch-3 sp> repeat < > around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg cl (12 cl and 12 ch-3 sps)

Round 3- sl st into the first ch-3 sp, (beg cl, ch 3, cl) in the 1st ch-3 sp, (ch3, cl) in the next ch-3 sp, <ch 3, (cl, ch3, cl) in the next ch-3 sp, (ch3, cl) in the next ch-3 sp>, repeat the < > around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg cl (18 cl and 18 ch-3 sps)

Round 4- (sl st, beg cl) into the first ch-3 sp, ch 3, <(cl, ch3) in next ch-3 sp>, repeat the < > around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg cl (18 cl and 18-ch-3 sps)

Rounds 5-9- repeat Round 4

Beginning the ribbed cuff:

Round 10- ch 2 (does not count as dc), dc in the same st, 3 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp, dc in the top of the first cl, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp, (dc in the top of the next cl, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp), repeat around, join with a sl st to the first dc (72 dc)

Round 11- ch 2 (does not count as a dc), bpdc in the first dc, fpdc in the next dc, (bpdc in the next dc, fpdc in the next dc) repeat around, join with a sl st to the top of the first bpdc (36 bpdc and 36 fpdc)

Round 12- ch 2 (does not count as a dc), bpdc in the first bpdc, fpdc in the next fpdc, (bpdc in the next bpdc, fpdc in the next fpdc) repeat around, join with a sl st to the top of first bpdc (36 bpdc and 36 fpdc)

Rounds 13- 18- repeat round 12

Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

 

Sandscapes Scarf FREE PATTERN

20170608_144055

Sandscapes Scarf Crochet Pattern

©2017 Amanda Bryant

Materials:

2 skeins Red Heart Unforgettable 100% Acrylic medium weight yarn (each skein 3.5 oz/100 g; 270 yards/246 meters)- color “Pearly”

6 mm crochet hook

yarn needle to weave in ends

Gauge: 4 sc= 1 inch, 4 rows in pattern= 1 inch

Finished Measurements: approx. 54 inches long x 7 1/2 inches wide

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

ch- chain

sc- single crochet

sk- skip

sp (sps)- space (spaces)

Instructions:

Ch 35

Row 1- in the back bump of the foundation ch, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in ea ch across, ch 1, turn (34 sc)

Row 2- sc in the 1st sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in the next sc, (ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in the next sc) repeat the ( ) across the row, ch 1, turn (11 ch-2 sps and 12 sc)

Row 3- sc in the 1st sc, make 2 sc in the 1st ch-2 sp, sc in the next sc, (make 2 sc in the next ch-2 sp, sc in the next sc) repeat the ( ) across the row, ch 1, turn (34 sc)

Row 4- sc in ea sc across the row, ch 1, turn (34 sc)

Repeat rows 2 though 4 for pattern 84 x’s, and then repeat rows 2 and 3 one more time each and fasten off.

Weave in ends.

20170608_144020

 

Valentine Doll- Free Pattern

I had intended to post the pattern for this doll quite a few days ago, but life got in the way. And when I had the time to do it, I just didn’t feel up to it. But there’s still some time before Valentine’s Day in case you want to make this little doll. It only took me a couple of days to design and make it, so if you have at least a little bit of experience in amigurumi then you should have no problem getting it made in time to give it to that special little child.

The pattern is pretty much completely customizable. You can change the colors of the clothing, skin and hair. You can also change how to make the hair, if you’re familiar with how to make hair. Different accessories can be made, depending on what you want. And it was all made with little balls of left over yarn.

Valentine Doll Pattern

© Amanda Bryant 2016

Materials Used:

Left over balls of worsted weight yarn (I used all Red Heart Super Saver)

  • Color A (Skin, ears and nose)- Aran
  • Color B (Dress, Shorts, Hat and mouth)- Cherry Red
  • Color C (Shoes)- Black
  • Color D (Socks)- White
  • Color E (Heart, Trim, Purse and Hair Ties)- Light Pink
  • Color F (Hair)- Coffee

3.75 mm hook

9 mm black plastic safety eyes

Decorative button

Polyester Fiberfill

Stitch marker

yarn needle

Height of completed doll: about 10 inches.

Notes:

  • The head and body are crocheted as one piece. Arms, legs, ears and accessories/decorations are created separately and then sewn into place.
  • The hair is attached to the inside of the hat and then the hat and hair together are sewn to the head as one piece.
  • The skirt is crocheted directly onto the body using the free/unused front loops of Round 27 of the body. Hold the doll upside down and work in the round.
  • Use a stitch marker to note the beginning and end of each round.
  • Parts of the doll are made in a continuous, non-joining round. Some parts are joined however. Read the instructions carefully.
  • If you are using safety eyes, I recommend that when it is time to place them, you first stuff the head and mark where you want the eyes placed. Then, unstuff, attach the eyes, and re-stuff. It sounds like a bit of work, but helps assure the eyes are placed properly before you snap the backing onto the eyes permanently.

Instructions:

Head & Body:

Starting at the top of the head with Color A, make a magic ring.

Round 1- make 6 sc in the ring

Round 2- make 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Round 3- (sc in the first sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around (18 sc)

Round 4- (sc in ea of the first 2 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around (24 sc)

Round 5- (sc in ea of the first 3 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around (30 sc)

Rounds 6- 10- sc in ea sc around (30 sc)

Round 11- (sc in ea of the first 3 sc, sc2tog) repeat around (24 sc)

Round 12- (sc in ea of the first 2 sc, sc2tog) repeat around (18 sc)

**now would be a good time to place the safety eyes- between about rounds 6 & 7 (see notes)

Round 13- (sc in the first sc, sc2tog) repeat around (12 sc)

**stuff the head firmly

Round 14- (sc2tog) repeat around (6 sc)

Rounds 15-16- (neck)- sc in ea sc around (6 sc)

Round 17- make 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Round 18- make 2 sc in ea sc around (24 sc). Sl st in the next st and fasten off.

**stuff the neck firmly

Round 19- Join Color B with a sl st, ch 1, sc in the next sc and in ea sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (24 sc)

Rounds 20-24- Ch 1, sc in the next sc and in each sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (24 sc)

Round 25- Ch 1, (sc in ea of the first 3 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc)

Round 26- Ch 1, sc in the next sc and in ea sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc. (30 sc)

Round 27- Ch 1, in back loops only sc in the next sc and in each sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc) ** this is the round where the skirt will be crocheted onto)

Rounds 28- 29- Ch 1, in both loops again sc in the next sc and in each sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc)

Round 30- Ch 1, (sc in ea of the first 3 sc, sc2tog) repeat around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc. (24 sc)

Round 31- Ch 1, (sc in ea of the first 2 sc, sc2tog) repeat around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (18 sc)

**stuff the body firmly

Round 32- Ch 1, (sc in the first sc, sc2tog) repeat around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (12 sc)

Round 33- Ch 1, (sc2tog) repeat around. Join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail.

Using the yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the last 6 sts and pull closed tightly. Secure the yarn tail and weave it in.

Legs (make 2):

Starting at the foot, with Color C make a magic ring.

Round 1- make 6 sc in the ring

Round 2- make 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Rounds 3-4- sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Round 5- (sc in ea of the first 4 sc, sc2tog) repeat around (10 sc). Sl st in the next st and fasten off.

Round 6- Join Color D with a sl st, sc in each sc around (10 sc)

Round 7- sc in ea sc around (10 sc). Sl st in the next st and fasten off.

Round 8- Join Color A with a sl st, sc in ea sc around (10 sc)

**stuff the leg as work progresses

Rounds 9-11- sc in ea sc around (10 sc). After round 11 sl st in the next st and fasten off.

Round 12- Join Color B with a sl st, sc in ea sc around (10 sc)

Rounds 13-14- sc in ea sc around (10 sc). After round 14 sl st in the next st and fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

**Sew the legs to the bottom of the body. If you’d like your doll to be able to sit, first sew the top opening of the leg closed before sewing it to the body.

Arms (make 2):

Starting with the hand, using Color A, ch 5.

Round 1- sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in ea of the next 3 ch’s. Then, working in the round, sc in ea of the unused loops across the opposite side of the foundation chain. (8 sc)

Rounds 2-4- sc in ea sc around (8 sc)

Round 5- (sc in ea of the first 2 sc, sc2tog) twice (6 sc)

*stuff hand and continue to stuff arm as work progresses

Rounds 6- 9- sc in ea sc around (6 sc). After round 9 sl st in the next st and fasten off.

Round 10- Join Color B with a sl st and make 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Rounds 11-12- sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Round 13- (sc2tog) repeat around (6 sc)

**At the end of round 13 either sew the top of the arm opening closed with a yarn needle (using the long yarn tail after you fasten off), or, fold the opening closed and sc through both thicknesses (3 sc across). Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Sew arms to the sides of the doll, lining the arm up with round 19 of the body (where the dress color begins).

Hat:

Beginning at the crown of the hat with Color B make a magic ring.

Round 1- make 6 sc in the ring

Round 2- make 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Round 3- (sc in the first sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around (18 sc)

Round 4- (sc in ea of the first 2 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around (24 sc)

Round 5- (sc in ea of the first 3 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around (30 sc). Join with a sl st to the next sc.

Round 6- Ch 1, in back loops only, sc in ea sc around, join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc)

Round 7- Ch 1, in both loops again, sc in ea sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc)

Round 8- Ch 1, in front loops only, sc in ea sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc). Fasten off.

Hair:

Cut 30- 6 inch strands of Color F. Fold one strand in half and hook it through the back unused loop of round 8 of the hat. Repeat with each of the other strands, having one folded strand hooked through each of the back loops of round 8 of the hat, for a total of 30 folded strands. If you would like longer hair, cut a longer strand. After all strands are hooked into place, sew the hat, at a slight angle towards the back of the head, making sure that the strands of hair don’t get stuck under the hat. Before completely stitching the hat to the head, add a tiny bit of stuffing under the hat. Trim the bangs, if desired.

(see the photo below for what the hair looks like attached to the inside of the hat)

Hair Ties (make 2):

With Color E, ch 30. Fasten off. Divide the hair evenly and tie each side into a pony tail.

Skirt:

Holding the doll upside down (so that the Right Side of the work is showing when completed), join Color B with a sl st to an unused front loop of round 27 of the body.

Round 1- Ch 1, sc in the next loop and in ea loop around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc)

Round 2- Ch 1, (make 2 sc in the next sc, make 1 sc in the next sc) repeat around. Join with a sl st in the beginning sc( 45 sc)

Rounds 3-5- Ch 1, sc in ea sc around. Join with a sl st in the beginning sc (45 sc). At the end of Round 5 fasten off.

Round 6- Trim- Join Color E with a sl st, ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in the next st and in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (45 dc). Fasten off.

Ears (make 2):

With Color A, ch 2. Make 5 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Using a yarn needle, weave in the beginning tail to the backside of the ear. Using the long end-tail, sew the ears to either side of the head, at about rounds 7-9.

Nose:

With a long strand of Color A and using a yarn needle, make a few overlapping stitches.

Heart Motif (on front of dress):

Color E- I used a pattern that I found HERE. Since the chest of the doll isn’t very big, I made the heart using only round 1 of the pattern. I sewed it to the front of the doll and then sewed a decorative flower button into the middle of it.

Purse:

Color E- The heart shaped purse is made using the same heart pattern I used for the motif for the front of the doll’s dress. Again, it can be found HERE. I made two hearts (using both Round 1 and Round 2 this time) and then sewed them together, leaving the top of the purse opened. Next, I added a strap. The strap was made holding 2 strands of yarn together. I joined the yarn to the sewn edge of the purse, made a ch of 25 and then (careful to not twist the ch) attached it to the other sewn edge of the purse.  Then I made sure it was secured and weaved in all the loose ends. When completed, hang the purse strap over a shoulder (and then fill the purse with a little candy or two!)

Mouth:

Stitch the mouth on, as seen in the photo, with Color B.

And so there it is. I hope you enjoy making this little doll, and especially that the special child you give it to will cherish and love it forever 🙂

Happy Valentine’s Day!

Amanda

 

 

Merry-Go-Baby Hat- Free Pattern

20160116_102531

This little hat will fit a child about 3 months to 6 months old. It is made using Front Post Double Crochet stitches. If you’re not familiar with how to work this stitch, you can read a tutorial HERE. Once you get the hang of it, it’s very easy, and addictive 🙂 It is worked in the round with sport weight baby yarn. I can’t remember the color I used, as once again I’m using leftover yarn (and I don’t have the label anymore), but I do know that it’s Bernat Baby Sport.

Merry-Go-Baby Hat Pattern

© Amanda Bryant 2016

Materials Needed:

3.5 mm hook

Bernat Baby Sport yarn

sewing or embroidery needle

Hat Measurements- about 15″ circumference and 5″ in length

Gauge- 5 fpdc= 1 inch, 5 rounds= 1 inch

Abbreviations Used:

sl st- slip stitch

sc- single crochet

dc- double crochet

fpdc- front post double crochet (see tutorial HERE)

Instructions:

Starting with a magic ring-

Round 1- make 8 sc in magic ring, join with a sl st in first sc (8 sc)

Round 2- ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in same st as join, make 2 dc in each sc around, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3 (16 dc)

Round 3- ch 2 (counts as first fpdc here and throughout), (make 2 fpdc in next dc, 1 fpdc in the next dc) 7x’s, make 2 fpdc in the last dc, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-2 (24 fpdc)

Round 4- ch 2, (make 2 fpdc in next fpdc, 1 fpdc in ea of the next 2 fpdc) 7x’s, make 2 fpdc in the next fpdc, 1 fpdc in the last fpdc, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-2 (32 fpdc)

Round 5- ch 2, (make 2 fpdc in next fpdc, 1 fpdc in ea of the next 3 fpdc) 7x’s, make 2 fpdc in the next fpdc, 1 fpdc in ea of the last 2 fpdc, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-2 (40 fpdc)

Round 6- ch 2, (make 2 fpdc in next fpdc, 1 fpdc in ea of the next 4 fpdc) 7x’s, make 2 fpdc in the next fpdc, 1 fpdc in ea of the last 3 fpdc, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-2 (48 fpdc)

Round 7- ch 2, (make 2 fpdc in next fpdc, 1 fpdc in ea of the next 5 fpdc) 7x’s, make 2 fpdc in the next fpdc, 1 fpdc in ea of the last 4 fpdc, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-2 (56 fpdc)

Round 8- ch 2, (make 2 fpdc in next fpdc, 1 fpdc in ea of the next 6 fpdc) 7x’s, make 2 fpdc in the next fpdc, 1 fpdc in ea of the last 5 fpdc, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-2 (64 fpdc)

Round 9- ch 2, (make 2 fpdc in next fpdc, 1 fpdc in ea of the next 7 fpdc) 7x’s, make 2 fpdc in the next fpdc, 1 fpdc in ea of the last 6 fpdc, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-2 (72 fpdc)

Round 10- ch 2, make a fpdc in next fpdc and in ea fpdc around the hat, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-2 (72 fpdc)

Rounds 11- 23- repeat round 10

**If you wish to make the hat slightly longer, simply repeat round 10 until you reach your desired length.

Fasten off and weave in your yarn tails with your sewing needle.

There is no trim on the hat, but the last round will curl up slightly. I played around with different stitches for a trim, but in the end found that the hat looks much cuter with a little curl. But that is only my personal opinion. Feel free to add a trim to yours 🙂

20160116_102514

 

 

Springtime Beanie- Free Pattern

springtimebeanie1 - Edited

Still using up my leftover’s, I made this hat following the pattern I created for the You Are My Sunshine Infants Hat Pattern. There are a few differences, however.  First of all, I used size 5 crochet thread and a 3.25 mm hook, rather than yarn and the larger hook. Secondly, this one fits an adult, and I didn’t make a pattern for a child sized one (although going by gauge and textbook measurements, I could guess at the pattern for a child sized, if you’re interested). And last but not least, there is no pointy little brim on it, just a trim of hdc’s.

Springtime Beanie Pattern

© Amanda Bryant 2016

Materials:

Bernat Handicrafter crochet thread size 5- Fresh Fern (Color A) and Iris (Color B)

3.25 mm hook

sewing or embroidery needle

Gauge: 6 clusters= 2 inches; 6 rounds= 2 inches

Hat Measurements: approx. 22 inches circumference (unstretched); approx. 7 inches in length

Abbreviations Used:

ch- chain

beg cl- beginning cluster

cl- cluster

yo- yarn over

st- stitch

sl st- slip stitch

sp- space

hdc- half double crochet

Instructions:

Beg Cl- ch 2, (yo and insert hook into st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo and pull through all 3 loops on the hook

Cl- (yo, insert hook into st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) 3 times, yo and pull through all 4 loops on the hook

Start with a Magic Ring and Color A

Round 1- make a Beg Cl, (ch 1, Cl) 5 times, ch 1, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (6 Cl and 6 ch-1 spaces)

Round 2- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *(Cl, ch 1, Cl) in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1*, repeat from * to *around,  join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (12 Cl and 12 ch-1 spaces made)

Round 3- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *Cl in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (Cl, ch 1, Cl in the next ch-1 sp), ch 1*, repeat from * to * around,  join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (18 Cl and 18 ch-1 spaces made)

Round 4- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *Cl, ch 1 in each of the next 2 ch-1 spaces, (Cl, ch 1, Cl in the next ch-1 sp), ch 1* repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (24 Cl and 24 ch-1 spaces made)

Round 5- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *Cl, ch 1 in each of the next 3 ch-1 spaces, (Cl, ch 1, Cl in the next ch-1 sp), ch 1* repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (30 Cl and 30 ch-1 spaces made)

Round 6- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *Cl, ch 1 in each of the next 4 ch-1 spaces, (Cl, ch 1, Cl in the next ch-1 sp), ch 1*, repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (36 Cl and 36 ch-1 spaces made)

Round 7- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *Cl, ch 1 in each of the next 5 ch-1 spaces, (Cl, ch 1 Cl in the next ch-1 sp), ch 1*, repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (42 Cl and 42 ch-1 spaces made)

Round 8- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *Cl, ch 1 in each of the next 6 ch-1 spaces, (Cl, ch 1, Cl in the next ch-1 sp), ch 1*, repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (48 Cl and 48 ch-1 spaces made)

Round 9- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *Cl, ch 1 in each of the next 7 ch-1 spaces, (Cl, ch 1, Cl in the next ch-1 sp), ch 1*, repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (54 Cl and 54 ch-1 spaces made)

Round 10- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *Cl, ch 1 in each of the next 8 ch-1 spaces, (Cl, ch 1, Cl in the next ch-1 sp), ch 1*, repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (60 Cl and 60 ch-1 spaces made)

Rounds 11- 16- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, Beg Cl in the same ch-1 sp, ch 1, (Cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl

At the end of round 16 fasten off Color A

Rounds 17- 21- Join color B with a sl st in the first ch-1 sp, Beg Cl in the same ch-1 sp, ch 1, (Cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl.

At the end of round 21 fasten off Color B

Rounds 22- 25- Join color A with a sl st in the first ch-1 sp, Beg Cl in the same ch-1 sp, ch 1, (Cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl.

At the end of round 25 fasten off Color A.

Round 26 (the trim)- Join Color B with a sl st in the top of the Beg Cl of the previous round (the same one that you fastened off Color A in), ch 2 (counts as a hdc), and make 1 hdc in each ch-1 sp and in the top of each Cl around. Join with a sl st in the top of the beginning ch-2. Fasten off.

With your sewing needle, weave in all loose thread tails.

springtimebeanie2 - Edited

You Are My Sunshine-Infants Hat- Free Pattern

20160111_105116

“You Are My Sunshine”

Infant’s Hat Pattern

© Amanda Bryant 2016

Unable to purchase any new yarn for the time being, I’ve been using up what’s in my “left-overs” stash.  The yarn I used in this hat is Red Heart Soft Touch in the color Lemon. Unfortunately, the camera on my phone doesn’t do the color any justice. It is actually much brighter than what you see in the photo. You can check out the Red Heart website for a better image of what the color looks like (click here to go to the page). The pattern below includes instructions for size 0-3 months, 3-6 months, and 6-12 months. (The 6- 12 month size fits my 13 month old daughter nicely.) I really love how this little hat turned out. The edging on the brim reminds me of little pointy rays of sunshine 🙂 Anyhow, I really hope you like this pattern. Any questions or comments, please don’t hesitate to contact me. Ok, here’s the pattern:

Materials:

5 mm hook

Red Heart Soft Touch yarn, color Lemon (1 skein will make 1 hat)

Yarn needle

Sizing: 0-3 months (about 12″ around), 3-6 months (about 15″ around), 6-12 months (about 18″ around)

Gauge- 6 rounds and 6 clusters= 3 inches

Abbreviations Used:

ch- chain

beg cl- beginning cluster

cl- cluster

yo- yarn over

st- stitch

sl st- slip stitch

sp- space

sc- single crochet

hdc- half double crochet

dc- double crochet

Instructions:

Beg Cl- ch 2, (yo and insert hook into st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) 2 times, yo and pull through all 3 loops on the hook

Cl- (yo, insert hook into st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) 3 times, yo and pull through all 4 loops on the hook

Start with a Magic Ring

Round 1- make a Beg Cl, (ch 1, Cl) 5 times, ch 1, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (6 Cl and 6 ch-1 spaces)

Round 2- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *(Cl, ch 1, Cl) in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1*, repeat from * to *around,  join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (12 Cl and 12 ch-1 spaces made)

Round 3- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *Cl in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (Cl, ch 1, Cl in the next ch-1 sp), ch 1*, repeat from * to * around,  join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (18 Cl and 18 ch-1 spaces made)

Round 4- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *Cl, ch 1 in each of the next 2 ch-1 spaces, (Cl, ch 1, Cl in the next ch-1 sp), ch 1* repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (24 Cl and 24 ch-1 spaces made) **Stop here for the size 0-3 month and proceed to round 7

Round 5- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *Cl, ch 1 in each of the next 3 ch-1 spaces, (Cl, ch 1, Cl in the next ch-1 sp), ch 1* repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (30 Cl and 30 ch-1 spaces made) **Stop here for the size 3-6 month and proceed to round 7

Round 6- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, (Beg Cl, ch 1, Cl) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, *Cl, ch 1 in each of the next 4 ch-1 spaces, (Cl, ch 1, Cl in the next ch-1 sp), ch 1*, repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl (36 Cl and 36 ch-1 spaces made)

Round 7- sl st in the first ch-1 sp, Beg Cl in the same ch-1 sp, ch 1, (Cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp around, join with a sl st to the top of the Beg Cl

For the 0-3 month size, repeat Round 7 until hat is 5 inches from crown, then proceed to instructions for the Brim.

For the 3-6 month size, repeat Round 7 until hat is 5 1/2 inches from crown, then proceed to instructions for the Brim.

For the 6-12 month size, repeat Round 7 until hat is 6 inches from crown, then proceed to instructions for the Brim.

Brim (for all hat sizes)- In first ch-1 sp, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc,sc).  *Sl st in the top of the next Cl. In the next ch-1 sp, (sc hdc, dc, hdc, sc). * Repeat from * to * around.  Join with a sl st to the first sl st of the last round.

Fasten off and weave in loose yarn tails with the yarn needle.

Best Friends Amigurumi

IMG_20150506_181200 - Edited

I made these dolls in the Spring of 2015, but have just now typed up the pattern for them. A little girl who lives local to me now owns them, and the last I heard she sleeps with them nightly and they are her “Best Friends”. So, I’ve named this pattern for that 🙂 My husband and I had named them Myrtle (on the left) and Mavis (on the right), but of course you are free to call them whatever you wish! The colors are completely customizable. You can use whichever colors you wish to, perhaps make them look like your own little girl! Each doll is roughly 11 inches tall. Gauge really isn’t important, so long as the stitches are tight together so that the stuffing doesn’t pop through. The pattern was very lengthy to type out, so please overlook any typo’s I might’ve made 🙂 On that note, please let me know if you do find any mistakes.

Best Friends Amigurumi

© Amanda Bryant 2016

Supplies Needed:

4 mm crochet hook

12 mm plastic (black) safety eyes

Polyester Fibrefill

Stitch marker

Yarn needle

Worsted weight yarn- I used Red Heart Super Saver in the following colors:

For Myrtle:

Skin- Aran (Color A)

Dress- Orchid (Color B)

Hair- Coffee (Color C)

Socks- Light Pink (Color D)

Shoes- Black (Color E)

Mouth- small amount of dark pink (Color F)

For Mavis:

Skin- Warm Brown (Color A)

Dress- Medium Thyme (Color B)

Hair- Coffee (Color C)

Socks- Claret (Color D)

Shoes- Black (Color E)

Mouth- small amount of light pink (Color F)

Special Notes:

-The head and body are crocheted as one piece, starting at the top of the head. Arms, legs, ears, hair and the skirt are added afterward.

-The hair is created as a wig, which is then sewn in place to the top of the head.

-The skirt is crocheted onto the body after the body is made, using the free front loops of Rnd 36 of the body. You will hold the doll upside down while creating the skirt, and work in the round.

-With the exception of the skirt, the doll is made in a continuous round, not joining each round. Use a stitch marker to mark the beg/end of each round.

-The nose is made using a small cluster of hdc’s.

-When placing the eyes, stuff the head and mark (with a pen or marker) where the eyes should go. Then remove the stuffing and secure the safety eyes on the marked spots. Once the eyes are secure, you can then re-stuff the head.

Abbreviations Used:

ch- chain

sc- single crochet

hdc- half double crochet

sc2tog- single crochet 2 sts together

sc3tog- single crochet 3 sts together

sl st- slip stitch

Instructions:

Head & Body-

Starting at the top of the head, with A, ch 2

Round 1- make 6 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook ( 6 sc)

Round 2- make 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc)

Round 3- (make 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in the next sc)  Repeat around. (18 sc)

Round 4- (make 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) Repeat around (24 sc)

Round 5- (make 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) Repeat around (30 sc)

Round 6- make 1 sc in each sc around (30 sc)

Round 7- (make 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) Repeat around (36 sc)

Round 8- make 1 sc in each sc around (36 sc)

Round 9- (make 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) Repeat around (42 sc)

Round 10-13- make 1 sc in each sc around (42 sc)

Round 14- make 1 sc in each of the first 20 sc’s, make 3 hdc’s (for the nose) in the next sc, make 1 sc in each of the next 21 sc’s (44 sts)

Round 15- make 1 sc in each of the first 20 sc’s, sc3tog (which will be the 3 hdc’s that you made in round 14), make 1 sc in each of the next 21 sc (42 sc)

Round 16- make 1 sc in each sc around (42 sc)

Round 17- (make 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, sc2tog) Repeat around (36 sc)

Round 18- (make 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, sc2tog) Repeat around (30 sc)- **Now is a good time to place eyes, at about round 11 of the head (see “Special Notes” at top of page)

Round 19- (make 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, sc2tog) Repeat around (24 sc)

Round 20- (make 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, sc2tog) Repeat around (18 sc)

**Stuff head, taking care to help shape the nose

Round 21- (make 1 sc in the first sc, sc2tog) Repeat around (12 sc)

Rounds 22-23- make 1 sc in each sc around (12 sc)

Round 24 (starting body)- make 2 sc in each sc around (24 sc)

Round 25- With B, (make 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) Repeat around (30 sc)

Round 26- (make 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) Repeat around (36 sc)

Rounds 27-30- make 1 sc in each sc around (36 sc)

Round 31- (make 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) Repeat around (42 sc)

Rounds 32-25- make 1 sc in each sc around (42 sc)

Round 36- working in the back loops only, make 1 sc in each sc around (42 sc)

Rounds 37-38- working in both loops again, make 1 sc in each sc around (42 sc)

Round 39- (make 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, sc2tog) Repeat around (36 sc)

Rounds 40-41- make 1 sc in each sc around (36 sc)

Round 42- (make 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, sc2tog) Repeat around (30 sc)

Round 43- (make 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, sc2tog) Repeat around (24 sc)

Round 44- (make 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, sc2tog) Repeat around (18 sc)

**Stuff the body firmly. Make sure the neck is stuffed firmly to help hold up the weight of the head and hair.

Round 45- (make 1 sc in the first sc, sc2tog) Repeat around (12 sc)

Round 46- (sc2tog) Repeat around (6 sc)

Sl st in the next sc, fasten off. With a yarn needle weave yarn tail through the remaining stitches, pull tightly and close securely.

Legs (make 2):

With E, starting at the bottom of the shoe, ch 2

Round 1- make 6 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (6 sc)

Round 2- make 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc)

Round 3- (make 1 sc in the first sc, 2 sc in the next sc) Repeat around (18 sc)

Rounds 4-5- make 1 sc in each sc around (18 sc)

Round 6- (make 1 sc in the first sc, sc2tog) Repeat around (12 sc)

Rounds 7-8- With D, make 1 sc in each sc around (12 sc) (this is the sock)

Round 9- With A, working in back loops only, make 1 sc in each sc around (12 sc) (this is the round where the sock’s ruffle will go)

Rounds 10-14- Working in both loops again, make 1 sc in each sc around (12 sc). *Stuff legs firmly as you go.

Rounds 15-18- With B, make 1 sc in each sc around (12 sc).

After Round 18, sl st in the next st, fasten off leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Squeeze the leg closed and using the yarn tail stitch across the top of the leg. Tie off, but don’t cut the yarn. You will need the remainder of the yarn tail to sew the leg to the body. Sew the legs to the bottom of the body.

Arms (make 2):

With A, and starting at the hand, ch 6

Round 1- sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each of the next 4 sc across (=5 sc), then sc in each ch across the opposite side of the foundation chain (10 sc total)

Rounds 2-5- make 1 sc in each sc around (10 sc)

Round 6- (make 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, sc2tog) Repeat around (2 x’s) (8 sc)

Rounds 7-14- Stuffing firmly as you go, make 1 sc in each sc around (8 sc)

Rounds 15- 18- With B, make 1 sc in each sc around (8 sc )

Round 19- make 1 sc in the first sc, then flatten the open end closed, ch 1, sc through both thicknesses, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Sew arms to sides of body, as shown in the photos.

Ears (make 2):

With A, ch 2

Round 1- make 4 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (4 sc)

Round 2- make 2 sc in each sc around (8 sc)

Round 3- make 1 sc in each sc around (8 sc)

Sl st in the next sc, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the beginning yarn tail inside the ear, fold ear in half and with the yarn needle and the long ending tail, sew the ear shut. Sew the ear to the side of the head, the top of the ear beginning at Round 11 of the head (will line up with the eyes). Do the same on the other side of the head with the other ear.

Sock Ruffle:

With the leg upside down, re-attach D in Round 9 of the leg, in the front unused loops. (Ch 2, sl st in each of the next 2 sts) repeat around, and join with a sl st to the bottom of the first ch-2. Fasten off. Repeat for other sock ruffle on other leg.

Mouth:

With F, stitch mouth on to the face. Pull the stitches in tight at both the top corners to help shape the face and smile.

Skirt:

Holding the doll upside down, attach B with a sl st to the front loops of Round 36 of the body (preferably on the backside of the doll so that joins are not too noticeable). There are 42 loops going around.

Round 1- Ch 1, make 1 sc in the first front loops and in each of the next loops around, join with a sl st to the first sc (42 sc)

Round 2- Ch 1, (make 1 sc in each of the first 6 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) Repeat around, join with a sl st to the first sc (48 sc)

Round 3- Ch 1, (make 1 sc in each of the first 7 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) Repeat around, join with a sl st  to the first sc (54 sc)

Round 4- Ch 1, make 1 sc in each sc around, join with a sl st to the first sc (54 sc)

Round 5- Ch 1, (make 1 sc in each of the first 8 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) Repeat around, join with a sl st to the first sc (60 sc)

Round 6- Ch 1, make 1 sc in each sc around, join with a sl st to the first sc (60 sc)

Round 7- Ch 1, (make 1 sc in each of the first 9 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) Repeat around, join with a sl st to the first sc (66 sc)

Round 8- Ch 1, make 1 sc in each sc around, join with a sl st to the first sc (66 sc)

Round 9- (skirt ruffle)- (Ch 3, sl st in each of the next 2 sts) repeat around, join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off.

Belt:

With D, cut a strip of yarn long enough to wrap around the waist twice, adding a few extra inches to tie off. Fold the yarn length in half and with a yarn needle, stitch around Round 35 of the doll’s body (weaving through every other stitch). Secure and fasten.

Hair:

With C, follow Rounds 1-12 of the head to create the wig piece. After Round 12, sl st in the next sc and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the wig to the head.

Bangs- Cut 18 strips of yarn, each about 4 inches long. Fold each one in half and loop through 18 consecutive sc’s of Round 12 of the wig piece, to form the bangs.

Pony Tail- Cut 18- 12 inch strips of yarn. Fold each in half and loop through Rounds 1 and 2 of the wig piece.

Sew hair piece to the head, at a slight angle. Stuff lightly if needed to fill out. Trim bangs. Fluff up bangs to hide any uneveness.

Hair Ties (make 2- 1 in color B, and 1 in color D)- Ch 55. Tie both around the base of the pony tail (double knot). Trim the length of the pony tail to even out.