Keychain Pouch With Drawstring FREE PATTERN

Since I’ve fallen behind this week, I thought I’d fill the gap in blog posts by resharing this old pattern, which I made about 6 years ago. I know in the original post I wrote that it would be good for beginners, however, I think I’ll clarify that it’s good for those who are beginning with crochet thread. Of course, you can use a larger yarn and hook size and make the pouch bigger in doing so. But then it might be too big to put on a keychain…but maybe you’re somebody who likes big keychains!
Anyway, enjoy and have a great Saturday!
~Amanda~

Crochet On The Brain

I was just browsing through my old bookmarks online and came across the link to one of my old blogs which contains some of my first original patterns. I believe this is the first pattern I ever posted online, back in May 2012. You can find the original post at the following link ( http://amandascomfortcreations.blogspot.ca/2012/05/keychain-pouch-with-drawstring.html ), but I’ve also copied and pasted it below to make it easier.

KeychainPouchwithDrawstringKeychain Pouch With Drawstring ©Amanda (Mills) Bryant 2012

A very easy project, ideal for beginners.

Materials Needed:
Size 10 Crochet Thread (one skein will make MANY pouches)
2.75 mm hook/U.S. size…
keyring
tapestry needle

Instructions:

Make a magic ring (or ch3, slip st in 1st ch to form a ring), 10 sc in ring. Pull ring closed, join with sl st to 1st sc in ring.

Next: 2 sc in each sc around, join with sl st (20 sc)

Next: sc in 1st sc…

View original post 165 more words

Multi-Purpose Cotton Mesh Bag- Free Pattern

I first created this simple Mesh Stitch bag to be used as a laundry bag for little crocheted face scrubbies, so they wouldn’t get lost amongst the other items in the washing machine. However, as I was busy crocheting, my mind started thinking of other uses for the bag. Depending on the size, you could also use the bag to wash your delicates/lingerie (ie/ bra straps not becoming tangled up with other items in the wash), a bath toy bag, or even a bag to hang dry your camping dishes in.  This would also make a lovely gift bag! Myself, I will be using the smaller bag for laundering face scrubbies, and the larger bag, I will buy some suction cups with hooks on them, and hang the bag in the bathtub for bath toys!

QUEUE OR FAVORITE ❤ THIS PATTERN ON RAVELRY!

 

Multi-Purpose Cotton Mesh Bag

© 2018 Amanda Bryant

Materials Used:

Peaches & Cream cotton yarn (I had about a ½ cone of yarn- about 7 oz worth- leftover from another project, and I was able to make two of these bags from it, with plenty remaining for *probably* a third bag)

Size 5.75 mm hook

Stitch markers

Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

Ch- chain

Dc/Dcs- double crochet/s

Sk- skip

St- stitch

Sp/Sps- space/spaces

Ch Sp- chain space

Gauge: in (dc, ch 1) pattern, 8 stitches= 4 inches, and 8 rounds= 4 inches

Finished Measurements:  smaller bag- 5 inches wide x 9 ½ inches tall; larger bag- 7 ½ inches wide x 9 ½ inches tall

Instructions:

For the smaller bag- Ch 23; (for the larger bag- Ch 33). To make a bag of a different size from the pattern below, simply make a foundation ch of any even number + 3. Then follow the pattern instructions as written.

Round 1- Dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 1, dc), ch 1, *(sk next ch, dc in next ch, ch 1) repeat from * across row. Turn work to work in other side of foundation chain. Sk the first ch, dc in first skipped ch of foundation chain , ch 1, **(dc in next skipped ch, ch 1), repeat from ** across, join with a sl st in the beginning dc (the 2nd ch of the foundation chain)  = 20 ch sps & 20 dcs (30 ch sps & 30 dcs) around.

Round 2- sl st in the first ch sp, ch 3 (counts as a dc, ch 1), *(dc in the next ch sp, ch 1), repeat from * around. Join with a sl st in the second ch of the beginning ch-3

Repeat round 2 until desired length (on both of my bags I repeated round 2 for a total of 18 rounds)

**Optional Hanging Loop (if you don’t want a hanging loop, skip this step and proceed to “last round”)– Place a st marker in a ch-sp where you want the hanging loop to be (or on either side of the bag if you want 2 hanging loops, for example if you want to use the bag as a bath toy bag- in which case you could hang it off of 2 suction cups)- SEE PHOTO BELOW *the safety pins are my stitch markers!

20180514_142823.jpg

Next, ch 2 (counts as a dc), then dc in each ch-sp and in each dc up to the stitch marker. *Dc in the sp where the st marker is placed. Ch 10 (or longer, if you want a bigger hanging loop), sl st in the first ch (-the ch furthest from the hook, which will form a loop). Dc in next dc, and in each ch-sp and dc around (if making 2 hanging loops, repeat from * to end of round). Join with a sl st to the beginning dc. Fasten off. Your bag should resemble the photo below:

20180514_150353.jpg

 

Last round (only if you did not make a hanging loop)- ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in each ch-sp and dc around, join with a sl st to beg dc= 40 dc around (60 dc around).  Fasten off. Your bag should resemble the photo above, minus the hanging loop.

**Optional- Chain tie/drawstring- for the smaller bag ch 70, for the larger bag ch 100

Weave ch tie through the ch spaces in the round before the last round. Or, instead of making a chain, you could use a long shoe lace as the tie. If you are using it as a laundry bag,  I don’t recommend using ribbon as it would fray in the wash. But ribbon would look nice if you are using it as a gift bag!

20180514_150754.jpg

Weave in all loose ends.

 

 

Easter Gift Bag (free pattern)

20180301_202642

QUEUE OR FAVORITE ❤ THIS PATTERN ON RAVELRY!

Easter Gift Bag

© Amanda Bryant 2018

 

Materials Used-

Peaches & Creme 100% Cotton worsted weight 4-ply yarn, 2 oz/56.7 g, approximately 95 yards/86 meters, color “Sweet Pea Stripes” (2 ½ balls)

Size J/10- 6.00 mm crochet hook

Yarn needle

Measurements– about 8 ½ inches tall, 23 inch circumference at base, 18 inch circumference at top

Gauge– in puff st pattern 4 rounds and 4 puff sts = 2 inches; in hdc pattern 4 rounds and 8 hdc’s= 2 inches

Abbreviations/Terms Used (US Terminology)

Ch- chain

y/o- yarn over

st/sts- stitch/stitches

Sp/sps- space/spaces

Sl st- slip stitch

Hdc- half double crochet

Hdc2tog- half double crochet two stitches together

Puff Stitch Group- where there are 2 puff sts in one space (which makes the st increases in each round. The increase is made by working 2 puff sts in that one space.)

Special Stitches

Puff Stitch- *(y/o, insert hook into st, y/o and pull loop up) 4 times, y/o and pull loop through all 9 sts on the hook, ch 1 to secure the top of the puff st (leave a bit of slack when doing the y/o and pulling up loop, as the work could get a bit stiff and hard to manipulate)

Instructions:

Ch 4, sl st in first ch to make a ring

Round 1- ch 1, make 6 puff sts in the ring, join with a sl st to the top of the first puff st (6 puff sts)

Round 2-  make 2 puff sts in the sp between the first 2 puff sts, and make 2 puff sts in between each of the next puff sts around to the end, join with a sl st to the top of the first puff st (12 puff sts)

Round 3- make 2 puff sts in the sp in the middle of the first puff st group, make 1 puff st in each space until the next puff st group, *(make 2 puff sts in the sp in the middle of this puff st group, make 1 puff st in each space until the next puff st group), repeat from * around to the end, join with a sl st to the top of the first puff st (18 puff sts)

Rounds-4-6-  Repeat Round 3, making 6 increases in each round. (Round 4= 24 puff sts, Round 5= 30 puff sts, Round 6= 36 puff sts)

Rounds 7-11- make 1 puff st in each sp around,  join with a sl st to the top of the beginning puff st (36 puff sts)

Round 12- Ch 2 (counts as a hdc here and throughout), hdc in the first sp,  hdc in the top of the next puff st,  hdc in each of the next puff sts and sps. Join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2. (72 hdc)

Round 13- Ch 2, hdc in ea of the next 9 hdc, hdc2tog,  *(hdc in each of the next 10 hdc, hdc2tog), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2 (66 hdc)

Round 14- Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around, join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2 (66 hdc)

Round 15- Ch 2, hdc in ea of the next 8 hdc, hdc2tog,  *(hdc in each of the next 9 hdc,  hdc2tog), repeat from * around,  join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2 (60 hdc)

Round 16- Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around,  join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2  (60 hdc)

Round 17- Ch 2, hdc in each of the next 7 hdc,  hdc2tog,  *( hdc in each of the next 8 hdc, hdc2tog), repeat from * around,  join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2  (54 hdc)

Rounds 18-23- Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around, join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2 (54 hdc)

Round 24- Ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch-1), sk next hdc, *(hdc in next hdc, ch 1, sk next hdc), repeat from * around to the end, join with a sl st to the 2nd ch of the beginning ch-3 (27 hdc and 27 ch-1 sps)

Round 25- Ch 2, hdc in first ch sp, *(hdc in next hdc, hdc in next ch sp), repeat from * around to the end, join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2 (54 hdc)

Round 26- Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around, join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2 (54 hdc)

Next- Ruffle Edging- Ch 3, sl st in the same st, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in each hdc around to the end, sl st into the beginning sl st, fasten off.

Drawstring-

ch 108, fasten off. Weave in through ch sts from round 24. Pull drawstring tightly and tie to close.

Weave in all yarn tails with the yarn needle, and fill with goodies for someone special!

 

 

 

 

 

Drawstring Pouch (Free Pattern)

20170528_142541

This is a very simple pattern and it works up quickly (depending on your speed, only about 1-2 hours) It is an ideal project for a beginning crocheter to tackle.

QUEUE OR FAVORITE ❤ THIS PATTERN ON RAVELRY!

Drawstring Pouch Pattern

© 2017 Amanda Bryant

Materials:

Peaches & Creme worsted weight cotton – The pouch on the left in the photo is color “Black Currant” and is available in a 2.5 oz/70.9 g ball, approx. 120 yards/109 m in length. The pouch on the right in the photo is color “Pansy” and is available in a 2 oz/56.7 g ball, approx. 95 yards/86 m in length. Both pouches took about 1/3 of a ball of yarn (35-40 yards) each.

5 mm crochet hook

Stitch marker

Yarn needle

Gauge-  4 sts=1″ and 4 rounds=1″

Pouch Measurements- the finished pouch measures approximately 8″ in circumference, and approximately 5 1/2″ in height (when flattened, as shown in photo, it is about 6″ in height).

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

ch- chain

sl st- slip stitch

sc- single crochet

hdc- half double crochet

Instructions:

Starting at bottom of pouch, Ch 2

Round 1- make 6 sc in the second ch from the hook, join with sl st to the first sc

Round 2- ch 1, make 2 sc in ea sc around,  join with sl st to the first sc (12 sc)

Round 3- ch 1, (make 1 sc in the first sc,  make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat around,  join with a sl st to the first sc (18 sc)

Round 4- ch 1, (make 1 sc in ea of the first 2 sc,  make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat around,  join with a sl st to the first sc (24 sc)

Round 5- ch 1, (make 1 sc in ea of the first 3 sc,  make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat around,  join with a sl st to the first sc (30 sc)

Round 6- ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in each sc around,  join with a sl st in the first sc  (30 sc)

Round 7- ch 1, working in both loops again, sc in each sc around,  join with a sl st to the first sc (30 sc)

Rounds 8-21- Repeat Rounds 6 and 7, 7 times.

Round 22- repeat round 6

Round 23- ch 2, working in both loops,  hdc in ea sc around,  join with a sl st to the top of the ch-2 (30 hdc)

Round 24- ch 1, working in back loops only,  sc in each hdc around,  join with a sl st to the first sc (30 sc)

Round 25- ch 1, working in both loops,  sc in each sc around,  join with a sl st to the first sc  (30 sc)

Round 26- ch 1, (sc in the first st, hdc in the second st, make 3 dc in the third st,  hdc in the fourth st, sc in the fifth st); repeat in ( ) around, join with a sl st to the first sc  ( 42 sts around).  If you are not doing the slip stitch trim (next round), fasten off here.

Round 27 (optional) Slip Stitch Trim (it was used on the “pansy” color pouch, but not on the “black currant” color pouch)-  (do not ch 1)- sl st in each of the first 3 sts (in the sc, hdc, and dc),  ch 3, sk the next dc, sl st in the next dc and in ea of the next 2 sts (in the hdc and the sc). <Sl st in ea of the next 3 sts (in the sc, hdc, and dc), ch 3, sk the next dc, sl st in the next dc and in ea of the next 2 sts (in the hdc and the sc). > Repeat the < > around, and join with a sl st to the first sl st. Fasten off. Using the yarn needle, weave in loose ends.

Drawstring- ch 75 and fasten off. Weave the finished drawstring through the hdc sts from round 23.

Just In Case (free pattern)

 

When I first started creating this case, it was intended to be an eyeglasses case. It was also suppose to be a gift for my mom for Mother’s Day. But I didn’t get it done in time. I had to perfect it a couple of times first. And then a few days ago I was Skyping with my mother and she asked what I was making, so I showed her. She said “Father’s Day is coming up and you’re dad needs a new case”…so, hint hint, lol. Blue is my mom’s color, not my dad’s color. So I made another one, in green, for my dad.

It doesn’t have to be an eyeglasses case. It can be used for many different things…crochet hooks, personal items, pens or pencils…anything that you don’t want to lose in the bottom of your purse or bag.

The case will look good in any color, and you can personalize it too…from choosing a special decorative button to sewing on crocheted appliques or flowers in a theme that appeals to whoever will be using it.

It is made with Peaches & Creme worsted weight cotton and will hold up nicely should it need to be washed.

This project works up quickly, in about an hour depending on your crochet skill level. And it’s simple enough for a beginning crocheter.

QUEUE OR FAVORITE ❤ THIS PATTERN ON RAVELRY!

Just In Case- Free Pattern

© 2017 Amanda Bryant

Materials Used:

Peaches & Creme Worsted Weight 4-Ply Cotton Yarn (2.5 oz/70.9 g) Approx. 120 yards/109 m **1 ball will make 3 cases*** (1st Case- Main Color <MC>: Bright Blue, Contrasting Color<CC>: White) (2nd Case- Main Color<MC>: Forest Green, Contrasting Color<CC>: White)

5 mm crochet hook

stitch marker

yarn needle

18 mm button

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

MC- main color

CC- contrasting color

ch- chain

FC- foundation chain

sl st- slip stitch

sc- single crochet

sc2tog- single crochet two single crochet together (decrease)

sk- skip

sp- space

beg- beginning

Gauge: 4 stitches= 1 inch; 4 rounds=1 inch; 4 rows= 1 inch

Finished Measurements: 6 1/2 inches x 3 inches

Pattern Notes:

The main part of this project is worked in alternating back loop and front loop single crochet, and is worked in the round with no joins. The flap of the case is made in rows with a ch-1 at the end of each row before turning.

When working in the round, be sure to mark the end/beg of each round with a stitch marker, and move the stitch marker up with each round as work progresses.

Scroll to the end of the pattern to find helpful photos.

Instructions:

With MC, ch 13

Round 1- working in the back bump of the FC, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, and in each of the next 11 ch across (see photos below: A is what the FC looks like from the front side. B shows what the backside of the FC looks like. You make your sc’s into the back bumps of the FC, which is shown with the orange arrow). DO NOT TURN. Work in the round, and make a sc in each of the unused loops of the FC (Photo C shows what Round 1 will look like when completed). You will have 24 sc’s around.

Round 2- make 1 sc in the back loop of the first sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc, (make 1 sc in the back loop of the next sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc). Repeat () around, ending with a sc in the front loop. (24 sc)

Rounds 3- 26- repeat round 2 (24 sc) do not fasten off

Creating the flap: (you will now be working in rows instead of rounds)

Flatten the work. You should have 4 sts already worked from the edge (the last 4 sts of the previous round. See Photo D. The orange arrow points to where the 4 sts are).

Row 1- make 1 sc in the back loop of the first sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc, (make 1 sc in the back loop of the next sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc). Repeat () 2 more times, ending with a sc in the front loop, for a total of 8 sts. These 8 sts, plus the last 4 sts of the previous round will be the 12 sts used for the beginning of the flap. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2- make 1 sc in the back loop of the first sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc, (make 1 sc in the back loop of the next sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc). Repeat () 4 more times, ending with a sc in the front loop, for a total of 12 sts. Ch 1, turn. (Photo E shows what your work should look like now).

Row 3- now working in both loops from this point on, sc2tog in the first 2 sts , make 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog in the last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (10 sc)

Row 4- make 1 sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (10 sc)

Row 5- sc2tog in the first 2 sts, make 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog in the last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (8 sc)

Row 6- make 1 sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (8 sc)

Row 7- sc2tog in the first 2 sts, make 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog in the last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)

Row 8- (this row creates the button hole)- make 1 sc in ea of the first 2 sts, ch 2, sk the next 2 sts, make 1 sc in ea of the last 2 sc. Ch 1, turn. (4 sc and 1 ch-2 sp)

Row 9- make 1 sc in ea of the first 2 sts, make 2 sc in the ch-2 sp, make 1 sc in ea of the last 2 sts. (6 sc) Fasten off.

Trim:

Join CC with a sl st to the first unworked st of Round 26 (See Photo F. The orange arrow indicates which st to start at). Ch 1. Make a sl st in the next st, and in ea of the next unworked sts of Round 26. Sc evenly up the side edge of the flap, making 2 sc in 1 stitch at the top corner. Continue to make 1 sc in ea sc along the top edge of the flap (which is Row 9). Continue to sc evenly down the second side edge of the flap, making 2 sc in 1 stitch at the top corner of this edge as well. (See Photo G. The orange arrows indicate where the 2sc’s are placed on either top corner of the side edges). Join with a sl st to the first sl st and fasten off.

Weave in all yarn ends. Sew button to the front of the case (before securing the button, be sure to position it correctly so that when the flap is folded over the button lines up with the button hole).

And Voila! You are done!

20170521_222441

20170521_222732

20170522_184832

20170522_192256

20170522_193009

20170521_154351

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Simple Pouch (free) Pattern

I do love it when my husband asks me to make him something 💖

This pouch was made for my husband so that he can easily carry his phone and wallet with him while running errands and going to appointments. It tucks down nicely beside him, between his lap and the arm rest of his wheelchair.  The flap closure is large and easy to manipulate as it has no buttons or zippers, and the large flap helps to ensure that the contents inside the pouch don’t fall out.

While I was making this, which only took a couple of hours, my mind was racing with ideas on how to make this pouch cute and pretty and even into a purse with straps. I have some cute fabric flower shaped buttons that I think would add a lot of girliness to it, but I don’t think my husband would appreciate that, lol. So I might just have to make this again, tweak it here, change it there, add some flowers, some trim…of course, if YOU want to spice up the pattern at all, feel free! And I would love to see what you’ve come up with ☺.

Ok…so here’s the really simple pattern:

QUEUE OR FAVORITE ❤ THIS PATTERN ON RAVELRY!

A Simple Pouch – Copyright Amanda Bryant 2017

Materials:

Peaches & Creme worsted weight 4 ply cotton yarn- 1 ball (2.5 oz/70.9 g; approximately 120 yards/109 meters) – the color I used, pictured above, is “Navy”. **I used almost exactly one full ball. I had probably about 15 or so inches of yarn left from the ball after I fastened off at the end.

5 mm hook

Stitch marker

Yarn needle, to weave in yarn tails

Gauge: 4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rounds= 1 inch

Finished size: approximately 5″×8″ , with a 1/2″ wide base (base consists of only the 1st round)

Instructions:

**be sure to remember to mark the beginning/end of each round with the stitch marker

Ch 31

Round 1- sc in 2nd Ch from hook and in each ch across, and then working around the backside of the foundation Ch,  sc in each ch across (60 sc)

Round 2- sc in each sc around (60 sc)

Rounds 3- 20- repeat Round 2

At the end of Round 20, flatten the pouch and sc over to the side edge (it was 6 sc for me). Ch 1 and turn, now you will work in rows instead of rounds, to create the flap.

Next- sc2tog,  26 sc across,  sc2tog,  ch 1, turn (28 sc)

Next- sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (28 sc)

Repeat this last row until the flap is about 5 inches long, or until you’re just about out of yarn if you’re using the same yarn and hook size as I did.

Fasten off and weave in yarn tails with yarn needle.