Woolly Wristers- Free Pattern (With Photo Tutorial)

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QUEUE OR FAVORITE ❤ THIS PATTERN ON RAVELRY!

Woolly Wristers

© Amanda Bryant 2018

Materials Used:

1 hank Cloudborn Highland DK yarn (100% wool) 164 yards/150 meters; 1.8 oz/50 g- Color “Oatmeal Heather”

Size H 5.0 mm crochet hook

*Optional 4.5 mm hook for trim

Stitch marker

Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Gauge: in ribbed pattern, 10 sc in blo= 2 inches; 14 ribbed rows= 2 inches

Size: Woman’s small to medium . Finished measurement: Length 7 inches, Circumference 8 inches

Note: There is no shaping involved in this pattern. You simply create a rectangle in rows and then seam it together with sl sts. Due to the stretchiness of the ribbing it will fit a variety of hand circumferences (my hand is approximately 8 inches around at the widest point, and you can see in the photos how it fits. It will stretch to approximately 10-11 inches around).

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

Ch- chain

Sc- single crochet

Blo- back loop only (for a photo tutorial on how to work in the blo to create ribbing, click Learn To Crochet- Back Loop Single Crochet Ribbing (Photo Tutorial))

Sl st- slip stitch

RS- right side (of work)

WS- wrong side (of work)

Instructions:

Ch 31

Row 1- RS sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn 30 sc

Rows 2- to 42  in blo sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn

At the end of row 42 this is what your work will look like:

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Next (seaming and making the thumbhole)-

Fold your work in half with RS together, as show in the photo below:

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Working through back loop of row 42 and the unused loop from the foundation ch (the foundation chain will be closest to you), as shown in the photo below,  make 1 sl st in the first sc and make 1 sl st in ea of the next 8 sc. 

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This is what your work look like with the first 9 sts slip stitched together:

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Then, sl st in each of the next 7 sts, but only through the unused loops of the foundation chain. This will create the thumb hole:

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Next, working through both thicknesses again (back loop of row 42 st and unused loop from the foundation ch), sk the 7 skipped sts from making the thumbhole and sl st in the next st, and then sl st in each of the last 13 sc. Ch 1.  This next photo shows what your work now looks like:

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Then turn the wrist warmer inside out. This is now the right side (the side of your work visible to the public when you wear it):

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Next, it is time to add the sc trim, which will be worked in 2 rounds, around each end of the wrister:

Trim (if you would like a tighter trim, simply use a smaller <4.5 mm> hook size)

Bottom (wrist) cuff trim-

Round 1- make 43 evenly spaced sc around the end edges of rows (Mark your first sc to make it easier to join at the end of the round). Join with a sl st to the first sc, ch 1

Round 2- make 1 sc in the same st as join, make 1 sc in each of the next 42 sc around, join with a sl st to the beginning sc.

Fasten off.

Top (finger) cuff trim-  With RS facing, Join yarn in the seam, ch 1,  and follow instructions for the bottom cuff.

Weave in all ends. Enjoy!

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Learn To Crochet- How To Make A Single Crochet (SC) & Weave In Ends- Photo Tutorial

Now that you’ve mastered making a basic Foundation Chain (FC), it’s time to learn how to make that first crochet stitch. In this photo tutorial I show you how to make a Single Crochet (SC) stitch into your FC, and how to weave in (and hide) yarn tails. As well, with learning this stitch, I’ll link you up with a free, simple washcloth pattern that uses the Single Crochet stitch.

But before we make a washcloth, let’s make a practice swatch (**PLEASE NOTE** If you are left-handed, you will simply be working in the opposite direction):

Gather your supplies:

You will need yarn, a crochet hook, a yarn needle (with an eye large enough that the yarn fits through), and a pair of scissors.

In this swatch, I used Peaches & Creme 100% cotton medium weight yarn, and a 5.5 mm crochet hook. This yarn is better suited for a 5 mm crochet hook, but I wanted to make sure the stitches were visible enough for this tutorial’s photos.  When you pick out your yarn to use, read the label, and it will tell you which hook size is recommended to use with that particular yarn.

ROW 1:

Step 1- The Foundation Chain (FC) Make a chain of 21 (in patterns, this would be written as “Ch 21”):

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Step 2- Insert your hook into the 2nd chain to the left of the hook, the first chain being the one that is on the hook. (There are different ways to insert your hook into the chain, but this is the easiest and quickest way for a beginner):

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Step 3- Wrap the working yarn over the hook:

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Step 4- Pull the yarn (that you just wrapped over the hook) through the chain stitch. You will now have 2 loops on the hook:

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Step 5- Wrap the working yarn over the hook again (like you did in Step 3), and pull the hooked yarn through both of the loops that are on the hook. You now have 1 Single Crochet (SC) stitch completed!:

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Step 6- To make your next SC stitch, insert your hook into the next empty chain to the left of the SC stitch that you just made:

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Next, repeat Steps 3 through 5 to make your next SC, and continue to repeat Steps 3 through 5 for each of your next SC’s across to the end of your foundation chain. At the end of the row, it should look like this (you will have 20 sc worked into your FC):

 

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ROW 2:

Now we make another row of SC’s.

Step 1- To do this, make 1 ch (in a pattern, written as “Ch 1”). Remember from the Foundation Chain (FC) Tutorial how to make a chain (wrap the yarn over the hook, then pull the yarn through the loop on the hook). The “Ch 1” acts as a “turning chain”. It helps to keep the side edges of the rows neat and straight. This is what your “Ch 1” will look like when completed:

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Step 2- After you’ve made your “Ch 1”, turn your work around so that the other side of the work is now facing you:

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Next,  insert your hook under the top 2 loops (shown with the little black arrows in the first photo directly below) of the first SC (which is where the Ch 1 is connected to, shown in the second photo below). Wrap the working yarn over the hook:

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Step 3- Pull the working yarn through the 2 loops of the SC, so that you now have 2 loops on your hook. Wrap the working yarn over the hook again:

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Step 4- Pull the working yarn through both of the loops that are on the hook. You now have 1 sc made on your second row:

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Step 5- Insert your hook into the top loops of the next SC. Wrap the working yarn over the hook:

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Step 6- Pull the wrapped yarn through the top loops of the SC. You will have 2 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again:

Step 7- Pull the wrapped yarn through the 2 loops that are on the hook. You now have 2 SC in your 2nd row.

Repeat Steps 4 through 7 of ROW 2 instructions. At the end of this second row it will look like this (20 SC made in this row also) :

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To make another row, simply repeat the entire set of instructions that are laid out for ROW 2.

After you’ve completed 6 rows, your work will look like this:

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After 12 completed rows, it will look like this (the same, but bigger and better!):

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When you reach the size of practice swatch that satisfies you, it’s time to snip the yarn and finish it off! To do this, when you reach the end of your last row, make a Ch 1. Cut the yarn (leave a 5 or 6 inch long yarn tail), and then pull the cut yarn through the Ch 1 with your hook. Pull it tightly so that the knot formed is secure.

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It will look like this (photo below), with the working yarn at the top of the work being cut and secured.

This photo below also shows the Right Side (RS) of the work, which is the side that you want to show off, that you want everyone to look at. If you make a garment, you want the RS of the work on the outside of the garment.  When making a piece where you start with the traditional foundation chain (which we did here), the beginning tail of yarn will be on the left hand side when looking at the RS of the work, and when looking at the Wrong Side (WS) of the work, the beginning tail of yarn will be on the right hand side (Opposite if you are working left-handed). The RS and WS of work varies according to different patterns and stitches, and sometimes can be a bit tricky to determine which is which (don’t worry, there are ways to tell!). But for this project, this is the RS of the work:

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When finishing up a project, you must also weave in all of your yarn tails (in this swatch, it is only the beginning tail from the FC and the ending tail that you just cut). This is done with a yarn needle (large or small, depending on the thickness of your yarn).

To begin, first string your yarn tail through the yarn needle, and turn work over so that you are looking at the WS of the work:

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Next, insert your yarn needle (on the WS of your work) through the top thickness of the stitches you made, a couple of inches across (don’t push your needle through to the other side of the work):

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Then pull the needle, with yarn, through those stitches:

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Now, turn the needle around and run it back through those stitches, making sure that the needle and yarn are inserted under a different ply of the stitches (so that you aren’t just undoing the weaving you just did):

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You can run the needle and yarn through the stitches in the same manner one or two more times to help ensure it’s secure. When you are done weaving it through, cut the yarn as close to the work as possible, without cutting your project, so that you can’t see any of the yarn tail popping out of the stitches:

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And you’re done! You’ve made your first SC swatch! Congratulations!

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Now that you’ve mastered the Single Crochet, do you think you can handle making your first Washcloth? You’ll be pleasantly surprised, I think, to find out that what you just made is pretty much the same thing as a basic Washcloth. Visit My First Crochet Washcloth- Free Pattern to get started!

 

 

Learn to Crochet- How To Make A Foundation Chain (FC)- Photo Tutorial

Welcome to the first of many of my planned Tutorials!

In this first tutorial, you will find instructions on how to make the Foundation Chain (FC), which is the first step for most people when learning how to crochet.

There are a few different methods for how to begin a crocheted project, however, learning how to make a basic Foundation Chain (FC) is, I believe, the best and most important first method to learn. It is the most basic method, and the simplest.

The FC (also called a base chain or a starting chain), as the name implies, lays the foundation for what you are going to make. It is the FC in which your crochet stitches will be made.

In the instructions below, I used Peaches & Creme 100% cotton worsted weight 4-ply yarn and a size I/9 5.5 mm crochet hook.

If you are right-handed, hold the crochet hook in your right hand and the working yarn in your left hand. Likewise, if you are left-handed, hold the crochet hook in your left hand and the working yarn in your right hand.  I am right-handed, so my instructions are shown accordingly. The instructions for crocheting are the same for either hand, just working in the opposite direction.

I hold my hook kind of like how I hold a knife, with my index finger against the handle of the crochet hook, close to the the hook, as shown in this photo:

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How to hold a crochet hook

In the photo in Step 3 below, you can see how I hold the working yarn. Most crocheters hold their hook and yarn in a fashion such as this, but as you get use to crocheting, you might find a way more comfortable and more suitable for yourself.

When making your FC, be sure to not pull on the yarn too tightly. The tension needs to be a bit loose so that it’s easy to pull your stitches through. If you find your tension to be a bit too tight, just start over and try again. In the beginning, I think that every crocheter (even those who are now professionals) have dealt with tension issues. As you practice you will find your natural tension, and then will be able to adjust your hook sizes accordingly.

Now, get your hook and yarn ready and let’s learn how to crochet!

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1. Make a slip knot

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2. Insert the hook into the loop of the slip knot

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3. Wrap the yarn around the hook, and then pull the wrapped yarn (following the arrow) through the loop that is on the hook

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This is what your first chain will look like. The red “V” shows where the first chain is. Repeat Step 3 until you have the amount of chains that you need for your project.

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This is what your work will look like with 2 chains made. Again, the red “V” shows where the chains are.

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And this is what 10 chains looks like in a Foundation Chain

Now, practice, practice, practice.

Once you’ve mastered how to work a Foundation Chain, you are then able to move on to learning the basic crochet stitches, which I will cover in future posts! Keep your eyes on this space, as I will update you when the next tutorial is published!

UPDATE JUNE 23, 2018: The next tutorial, for learning the Single Crochet, is here!  Learn To Crochet- How To Make A Single Crochet (SC) & Weave In Ends- Photo Tutorial

Happy Hookin’!

~Amanda~

 

 

Bath Pouf- Free Pattern (With Photo Tutorial)

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QUEUE OR FAVORITE ❤ THIS PATTERN ON RAVELRY!

Still in the theme of trying to use up my stash of yarn, most notably my cotton yarn, I thought I’d try my hand at designing a basic bath pouf. I know there are many patterns for them floating around out there, and they’re pretty much all the same, or close to the same. I wouldn’t be surprised at all if what I’ve created here already exists! (I hope not, but there’s never that guarantee!).  I’ve tried a number of them, but they’re always so thick and never dry properly. The ones here that I’ve created, I hope that you’ll agree that they aren’t quite as dense as other pouf patterns. Some people love, and swear by, these crocheted bath poufs, others are firmly set against them…it’s really a matter of what you personally prefer. **I must note that I’ve found that the better air circulation you have in your home, most notably in the bathroom, the better and faster any handmade bath pouf will dry.**

You’ll see in the photo above that one of those poufs looks different…I have a lot of Red Heart Scrubby (the polyester kind), and so I thought I would also make a pouf that can act as an exfoliant too! My thought was that it would make a great foot scrubber, or if you have a messy occupation or hobby, like painting or working in a garage, it would work wonders at helping get the extra filth or grease off.  Myself, well, it’s officially barefoot and sandal season and I need something to get my tootsies clean, lol.  And being polyester, you can just throw the pouf in the wash (machine wash warm, gentle cycle, tumble dry low…but you could hang dry it if you prefer). I also find that the polyester lathers up a bit better than the cotton.

The photo tutorial below shows the brightly colored/multicolored pouf being made. I changed colors with every round.

Before you begin making one of these, I must warn you that this is a huge yarn-eating pattern. I used left-overs, so I can’t really give you an exact measurement in how much yarn was used.  But it would be best if you buy at least 5 oz to 7 oz worth of yarn to make one pouf.

The first pouf I made with this pattern is the brown/white one. I used a 6.5 mm hook, but then changed to a 5.5 mm hook for the other two poufs. The 6.5 mm hook made it too loose, I think, but if that’s what you prefer, then by all means use the larger hook 🙂

Materials Used:

For the multi-colored pouf (looks blue in the photo above, but is the one in the photo tutorial below)– a 5.5 mm hook, Peaches & Creme 100% Cotton, medium (“4”) weight yarn, sold in 2.5 oz/70.9 g; approx. 120 yards/109 meters balls– a small amount in the color “Black Currant”, a small amount in the color “Bright Pink”, about a 1/4 to 1/2 ball in the color “Sunshine”, and almost one full ball in the color “Bright Blue”. (I was working with left-over balls of yarn, so I don’t know exact measurements, sorry).

For the brown/white pouf– a 6.5 mm hook, Peaches & Cream 100% Cotton, medium (“4”) weight yarn– in the color “Chocolate Milk”–, sold in 14 oz cones- again, this was left-overs, and it took up in between 1/4 to 1/2 of a cone.

For the yellow exfoliant scrubby- a 5.5 mm hook, Red Heart Scrubby 100% polyester, worsted (“4”) weight yarn–in the color “Duckie”–, sold in a 3.5 oz/100 g ; approximately 92 yards/85 meters balls.  And a small amount of the Peaches ‘n’ Creme cotton for the hanging loop and first round–in the color “Royal”. I used almost exactly one full ball of the polyester Scrubby. In fact, I was left with only about 100 inches/2.5 meters/2.7 yards. So if you use a larger hook, or your tension is looser than mine, you might want to buy an extra ball of this.

OH, and for all the poufs, make sure you use a stitch marker to mark the first dc of each round, so that it’s easier to see where you have to join at the end of each round.

Finished Measurements- the Multi-colored pouf and the Yellow scrubby pouf, approximately 5 inches in diameter; for the brown/white pouf, approximately 6 inches in diameter (using the larger hook).

Gauge: I don’t find that gauge is overly important because there are multiple stitches in each stitch, and the rounds have to become wavy and unruly. However, if you are keeping track, it’s roughly 4-5 dc in 1 inch. And 3 rounds of dc’s is about 2 1/2 inches. Since the stitches are so bunched up, it’s a bit hard for me to get an exact measurement.

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

ch- chain

sl st- slip stitch

dc- double crochet

Instructions: ***The instructions for all poufs are the same, just the color scheme is different. The instructions below show how to make the multi-colored pouf. Change your colors as you wish 🙂

With Black Currant,

Step 1- Ch 6, sl st to first ch to form a ring

 

Step 2- Ch 35, sl st into the first ch to form the hanging loop, then sl st into the small ring from step 1 

 

Round 1- Ch 2 (does not count as dc), make 20 dc in the smaller ring, join with sl st to the beg dc (20 dc) 

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Ch 2 (does not count as dc), make 20 dc in the smaller ring, join with sl st to the beg dc (20 dc)

Change to Bright Pink,

Round 2- Ch 2 (does not count as dc), make 3 dc in ea dc around, join with a sl st to the beg dc  (60 dc) (It will start to look wavy now, which it is suppose to do)

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Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 3 dc in ea dc around, join with a sl st to the beg dc  (60 dc)

Change to Sunshine,

Round 3- Ch 2 (does not count as a dc), make 3 dc in ea dc around, join with a sl st to the beginning dc (180 dc) (It’s getting really wavy now)

 

Change to Bright Blue,

Round 4- Ch 2 (does not count as a dc), make 3 dc in ea dc around, join with a sl st to the beginning dc (540 dc). Fasten off and weave in your loose ends.

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Voila! And this is what it looks like when all done! Pretty!

 

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