Category Archives: DK yarn

Plum Crazy Slouchy Hat- Free Pattern

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Plum Crazy Slouchy Hat

© Amanda Bryant 2019

QUEUE OR FAVORITE ❤ THIS PATTERN ON RAVELRY!

Materials Used:

Cloudborn Fibers Highland DK 100% Fine Highland Wool (164 yds/150 m; 1.8 oz/50 g)- about 1 ½  hanks (or approx. 246 yds/225 m; 2.7 oz/75 g)- Color 18-101 “Plum Heather”

Size H/5 mm crochet hook

Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Stitch marker (for beg/end of rounds)

Gauge: 4 DC= 1” and 3 rounds= 1” in DC pattern

Finished Measurements/Sizing: Adult small to medium. Length 10 ½ “, circumference (of ribbed cuff) 17” (unstretched; stretches to snuggly fit a 21” head)

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

Ch- chain

Dc- double crochet

Dc2tog- double crochet two stitches together

sp(s)- space(s)

st(s)- stitch(es)

Sl- slip

Sl st- slip stich

Fpdc- front post double crochet

Bpdc- back post double crochet

Beg- begin(ning)

Ea- each

Special Notes:

  • When making dc’s, they are made in the spaces between the established dc’s, up until the ribbing, in which case the ribbing is made with post stitches.
  • The Ch-3 at the beginning of each round counts as a dc and therefore is the first st of each round.
  • If you would like your hat cuff to be a bit looser than my measurements shown above, omit round 14. Working the ribbing (fpdc, bpdc) rounds will still work out as shown, but you will be working with 72 sts instead of 64 sts.

Instructions:

Beg at the top of the hat, Ch 3, join with a sl st to the 1st chain make a ring

Round 1- Ch 3 (counts as a DC here and throughout), make 7 DC in the ring, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3 (8 DC)

Round 2- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, make 1 DC in same sp, * (make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3 (16 DC)

Round 3- sl st into sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, make 1 DC in same sp, make 1 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC), repeat from * around, join (24 DC)

Round 4- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, make 1 DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 2 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 2 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3.  (32 DC)

Round 5- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 3 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 3 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3.  (40 DC)

Round 6- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 4 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 4 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (48 DC)

Round 7- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 5 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 5 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (56 DC)  

Round 8- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 6 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 6 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (64 DC)

Round 9- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 7 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 7 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (72 DC)  

Round 10- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 8 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 8 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (80 DC)  

Round 11- (work even)- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC into each sp between each of the next DC around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3 (80 DC)

Repeat round 11 until hat measures 8” from beginning

Still working in the sp between sts:

Round 12-  sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 7 DC, dc2tog over the next 2 sps, *(make 1 DC in ea sp between each of the next 8 DC, dc2tog over the next 2 sps), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (72 DC)

Round 13- (work even)-  sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC into each sp between each of the next DC around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (72 DC)

Round 14-  sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 6 DC, dc2tog over the next 2 sps, *(make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 7 DC, dc2tog over the next 2 sps), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (64 DC)

Round 15- (work even)- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC into each sp between each of the next DC around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (64 DC)

Round 16- do not sl st to sp. Ch 1. Make 1 Fpdc in the same st as the join was made in, make 1 Bpdc in the next DC, *(make 1 Fpdc in the next DC, make 1 bpdc in the next DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the first fpdc. (32 fpdc and 32 bpdc)

Round 17- Ch 1. Make 1 Fpdc in the same fpdc as the join was made in, make 1 Bpdc in the next bpdc,  *(make 1 Fpdc in the next fpdc, make 1 bpdc in next bpdc), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the first fpdc. (32 fpdc and 32 bpdc)

Repeat Round 17 until ribbing measures 2.5”. Fasten off.
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Woolly Wristers- Free Pattern (With Photo Tutorial)

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QUEUE OR FAVORITE ❤ THIS PATTERN ON RAVELRY!

Woolly Wristers

© Amanda Bryant 2018

Materials Used:

1 hank Cloudborn Highland DK yarn (100% wool) 164 yards/150 meters; 1.8 oz/50 g- Color “Oatmeal Heather”

Size H 5.0 mm crochet hook

*Optional 4.5 mm hook for trim

Stitch marker

Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Gauge: in ribbed pattern, 10 sc in blo= 2 inches; 14 ribbed rows= 2 inches

Size: Woman’s small to medium . Finished measurement: Length 7 inches, Circumference 8 inches

Note: There is no shaping involved in this pattern. You simply create a rectangle in rows and then seam it together with sl sts. Due to the stretchiness of the ribbing it will fit a variety of hand circumferences (my hand is approximately 8 inches around at the widest point, and you can see in the photos how it fits. It will stretch to approximately 10-11 inches around).

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

Ch- chain

Sc- single crochet

Blo- back loop only (for a photo tutorial on how to work in the blo to create ribbing, click Learn To Crochet- Back Loop Single Crochet Ribbing (Photo Tutorial))

Sl st- slip stitch

RS- right side (of work)

WS- wrong side (of work)

Instructions:

Ch 31

Row 1- RS sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn 30 sc

Rows 2- to 42  in blo sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn

At the end of row 42 this is what your work will look like:

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Next (seaming and making the thumbhole)-

Fold your work in half with RS together, as show in the photo below:

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Working through back loop of row 42 and the unused loop from the foundation ch (the foundation chain will be closest to you), as shown in the photo below,  make 1 sl st in the first sc and make 1 sl st in ea of the next 8 sc. 

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This is what your work look like with the first 9 sts slip stitched together:

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Then, sl st in each of the next 7 sts, but only through the unused loops of the foundation chain. This will create the thumb hole:

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Next, working through both thicknesses again (back loop of row 42 st and unused loop from the foundation ch), sk the 7 skipped sts from making the thumbhole and sl st in the next st, and then sl st in each of the last 13 sc. Ch 1.  This next photo shows what your work now looks like:

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Then turn the wrist warmer inside out. This is now the right side (the side of your work visible to the public when you wear it):

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Next, it is time to add the sc trim, which will be worked in 2 rounds, around each end of the wrister:

Trim (if you would like a tighter trim, simply use a smaller <4.5 mm> hook size)

Bottom (wrist) cuff trim-

Round 1- make 43 evenly spaced sc around the end edges of rows (Mark your first sc to make it easier to join at the end of the round). Join with a sl st to the first sc, ch 1

Round 2- make 1 sc in the same st as join, make 1 sc in each of the next 42 sc around, join with a sl st to the beginning sc.

Fasten off.

Top (finger) cuff trim-  With RS facing, Join yarn in the seam, ch 1,  and follow instructions for the bottom cuff.

Weave in all ends. Enjoy!

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