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Sandscapes Scarf FREE PATTERN

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Sandscapes Scarf Crochet Pattern

©2017 Amanda Bryant

Materials:

2 skeins Red Heart Unforgettable 100% Acrylic medium weight yarn (each skein 3.5 oz/100 g; 270 yards/246 meters)- color “Pearly”

6 mm crochet hook

yarn needle to weave in ends

Gauge: 4 sc= 1 inch, 4 rows in pattern= 1 inch

Finished Measurements: approx. 54 inches long x 7 1/2 inches wide

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

ch- chain

sc- single crochet

sk- skip

sp (sps)- space (spaces)

Instructions:

Ch 35

Row 1- in the back bump of the foundation ch, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in ea ch across, ch 1, turn (34 sc)

Row 2- sc in the 1st sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in the next sc, (ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in the next sc) repeat the ( ) across the row, ch 1, turn (11 ch-2 sps and 12 sc)

Row 3- sc in the 1st sc, make 2 sc in the 1st ch-2 sp, sc in the next sc, (make 2 sc in the next ch-2 sp, sc in the next sc) repeat the ( ) across the row, ch 1, turn (34 sc)

Row 4- sc in ea sc across the row, ch 1, turn (34 sc)

Repeat rows 2 though 4 for pattern 84 x’s, and then repeat rows 2 and 3 one more time each and fasten off.

Weave in ends.

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Chugging Along

A preview of what’s to come…

This is almost complete. In the end it will be a scarf. I’m using Red Heart Unforgettable,  in the color “pearly”.  I love the striping effect and the fuzzy fibres. I’m using a 6mm hook and coming up to the end of the second skein.  I was thinking of trying to make a matching hat, but I’m also thinking I’d like to try knitting a hat with this yarn instead. I have one skein of it left.

And this is going to be a slouchy hat, comprised mostly of clusters. I’m using Vanna’s Choice in the color “periwinkle “, with a 6mm hook.

My yarn bin is overflowing.  It seems to be that as I use up one skein I replace it with 2 or 3 more skeins, lol. I told my husband that I’d like to sign up for one of those yarn-of-the-month clubs but his lack of enthusiasm about that idea leads me to believe that I should use up at least some of what I’ve got on hand before mentioning that idea again, lol.

A few days ago I picked up 5 skeins of Caron Simply Stripes in the color “jersey shore”. I can picture it becoming a c2c or perhaps a kids poncho or hat, scarf and mitten set.

I have a few amigurumi projects in the works, but they’ve been put on hold. I find it very difficult to work on them, especially the assembly of them, with my daughter hanging off of me.

I would really love to try to knit a shawl or wrap. I’ve crocheted many in the past, but never knit one. I have 4 skeins of Lion Brand Landscapes in the color “boardwalk”, and I think that would look great as a shawl or wrap, but I don’t know if 4 skeins is enough.

I could go on and on about what yarn I have and my ideas for what they will become, but, I think I should spend some more time working on my current WIP’S first! Lol

On that note, I’m off to see what progress I can make on my projects today…

Enjoy your Sunday!

Amanda 🌹⚘🌼

Drawstring Pouch (Free Pattern)

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This is a very simple pattern and it works up quickly (depending on your speed, only about 1-2 hours) It is an ideal project for a beginning crocheter to tackle.

Drawstring Pouch Pattern

© 2017 Amanda Bryant

Materials:

Peaches & Creme worsted weight cotton – The pouch on the left in the photo is color “Black Currant” and is available in a 2.5 oz/70.9 g ball, approx. 120 yards/109 m in length. The pouch on the right in the photo is color “Pansy” and is available in a 2 oz/56.7 g ball, approx. 95 yards/86 m in length. Both pouches took about 1/3 of a ball of yarn (35-40 yards) each.

5 mm crochet hook

Stitch marker

Yarn needle

Gauge-  4 sts=1″ and 4 rounds=1″

Pouch Measurements- the finished pouch measures approximately 8″ in circumference, and approximately 5 1/2″ in height (when flattened, as shown in photo, it is about 6″ in height).

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

ch- chain

sl st- slip stitch

sc- single crochet

hdc- half double crochet

Instructions:

Starting at bottom of pouch, Ch 2

Round 1- make 6 sc in the second ch from the hook, join with sl st to the first sc

Round 2- ch 1, make 2 sc in ea sc around,  join with sl st to the first sc (12 sc)

Round 3- ch 1, (make 1 sc in the first sc,  make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat around,  join with a sl st to the first sc (18 sc)

Round 4- ch 1, (make 1 sc in ea of the first 2 sc,  make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat around,  join with a sl st to the first sc (24 sc)

Round 5- ch 1, (make 1 sc in ea of the first 3 sc,  make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat around,  join with a sl st to the first sc (30 sc)

Round 6- ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in each sc around,  join with a sl st in the first sc  (30 sc)

Round 7- ch 1, working in both loops again, sc in each sc around,  join with a sl st to the first sc (30 sc)

Rounds 8-21- Repeat Rounds 6 and 7, 7 times.

Round 22- repeat round 6

Round 23- ch 2, working in both loops,  hdc in ea sc around,  join with a sl st to the top of the ch-2 (30 hdc)

Round 24- ch 1, working in back loops only,  sc in each hdc around,  join with a sl st to the first sc (30 sc)

Round 25- ch 1, working in both loops,  sc in each sc around,  join with a sl st to the first sc  (30 sc)

Round 26- ch 1, (sc in the first st, hdc in the second st, make 3 dc in the third st,  hdc in the fourth st, sc in the fifth st); repeat in ( ) around, join with a sl st to the first sc  ( 42 sts around).  If you are not doing the slip stitch trim (next round), fasten off here.

Round 27 (optional) Slip Stitch Trim (it was used on the “pansy” color pouch, but not on the “black currant” color pouch)-  (do not ch 1)- sl st in each of the first 3 sts (in the sc, hdc, and dc),  ch 3, sk the next dc, sl st in the next dc and in ea of the next 2 sts (in the hdc and the sc). <Sl st in ea of the next 3 sts (in the sc, hdc, and dc), ch 3, sk the next dc, sl st in the next dc and in ea of the next 2 sts (in the hdc and the sc). > Repeat the < > around, and join with a sl st to the first sl st. Fasten off. Using the yarn needle, weave in loose ends.

Drawstring- ch 75 and fasten off. Weave the finished drawstring through the hdc sts from round 23.

Just In Case (free pattern)

 

When I first started creating this case, it was intended to be an eyeglasses case. It was also suppose to be a gift for my mom for Mother’s Day. But I didn’t get it done in time. I had to perfect it a couple of times first. And then a few days ago I was Skyping with my mother and she asked what I was making, so I showed her. She said “Father’s Day is coming up and you’re dad needs a new case”…so, hint hint, lol. Blue is my mom’s color, not my dad’s color. So I made another one, in green, for my dad.

It doesn’t have to be an eyeglasses case. It can be used for many different things…crochet hooks, personal items, pens or pencils…anything that you don’t want to lose in the bottom of your purse or bag.

The case will look good in any color, and you can personalize it too…from choosing a special decorative button to sewing on crocheted appliques or flowers in a theme that appeals to whoever will be using it.

It is made with Peaches & Creme worsted weight cotton and will hold up nicely should it need to be washed.

This project works up quickly, in about an hour depending on your crochet skill level. And it’s simple enough for a beginning crocheter.

Just In Case- Free Pattern

© 2017 Amanda Bryant

Materials Used:

Peaches & Creme Worsted Weight 4-Ply Cotton Yarn (2.5 oz/70.9 g) Approx. 120 yards/109 m **1 ball will make 3 cases*** (1st Case- Main Color <MC>: Bright Blue, Contrasting Color<CC>: White) (2nd Case- Main Color<MC>: Forest Green, Contrasting Color<CC>: White)

5 mm crochet hook

stitch marker

yarn needle

18 mm button

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

MC- main color

CC- contrasting color

ch- chain

FC- foundation chain

sl st- slip stitch

sc- single crochet

sc2tog- single crochet two single crochet together (decrease)

sk- skip

sp- space

beg- beginning

Gauge: 4 stitches= 1 inch; 4 rounds=1 inch; 4 rows= 1 inch

Finished Measurements: 6 1/2 inches x 3 inches

Pattern Notes:

The main part of this project is worked in alternating back loop and front loop single crochet, and is worked in the round with no joins. The flap of the case is made in rows with a ch-1 at the end of each row before turning.

When working in the round, be sure to mark the end/beg of each round with a stitch marker, and move the stitch marker up with each round as work progresses.

Scroll to the end of the pattern to find helpful photos.

Instructions:

With MC, ch 13

Round 1- working in the back bump of the FC, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, and in each of the next 11 ch across (see photos below: A is what the FC looks like from the front side. B shows what the backside of the FC looks like. You make your sc’s into the back bumps of the FC, which is shown with the orange arrow). DO NOT TURN. Work in the round, and make a sc in each of the unused loops of the FC (Photo C shows what Round 1 will look like when completed). You will have 24 sc’s around.

Round 2- make 1 sc in the back loop of the first sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc, (make 1 sc in the back loop of the next sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc). Repeat () around, ending with a sc in the front loop. (24 sc)

Rounds 3- 26- repeat round 2 (24 sc) do not fasten off

Creating the flap: (you will now be working in rows instead of rounds)

Flatten the work. You should have 4 sts already worked from the edge (the last 4 sts of the previous round. See Photo D. The orange arrow points to where the 4 sts are).

Row 1- make 1 sc in the back loop of the first sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc, (make 1 sc in the back loop of the next sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc). Repeat () 2 more times, ending with a sc in the front loop, for a total of 8 sts. These 8 sts, plus the last 4 sts of the previous round will be the 12 sts used for the beginning of the flap. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2- make 1 sc in the back loop of the first sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc, (make 1 sc in the back loop of the next sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc). Repeat () 4 more times, ending with a sc in the front loop, for a total of 12 sts. Ch 1, turn. (Photo E shows what your work should look like now).

Row 3- now working in both loops from this point on, sc2tog in the first 2 sts , make 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog in the last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (10 sc)

Row 4- make 1 sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (10 sc)

Row 5- sc2tog in the first 2 sts, make 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog in the last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (8 sc)

Row 6- make 1 sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (8 sc)

Row 7- sc2tog in the first 2 sts, make 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog in the last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)

Row 8- (this row creates the button hole)- make 1 sc in ea of the first 2 sts, ch 2, sk the next 2 sts, make 1 sc in ea of the last 2 sc. Ch 1, turn. (4 sc and 1 ch-2 sp)

Row 9- make 1 sc in ea of the first 2 sts, make 2 sc in the ch-2 sp, make 1 sc in ea of the last 2 sts. (6 sc) Fasten off.

Trim:

Join CC with a sl st to the first unworked st of Round 26 (See Photo F. The orange arrow indicates which st to start at). Ch 1. Make a sl st in the next st, and in ea of the next unworked sts of Round 26. Sc evenly up the side edge of the flap, making 2 sc in 1 stitch at the top corner. Continue to make 1 sc in ea sc along the top edge of the flap (which is Row 9). Continue to sc evenly down the second side edge of the flap, making 2 sc in 1 stitch at the top corner of this edge as well. (See Photo G. The orange arrows indicate where the 2sc’s are placed on either top corner of the side edges). Join with a sl st to the first sl st and fasten off.

Weave in all yarn ends. Sew button to the front of the case (before securing the button, be sure to position it correctly so that when the flap is folded over the button lines up with the button hole).

And Voila! You are done!

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A Simple Pouch (free) Pattern

I do love it when my husband asks me to make him something 💖

This pouch was made for my husband so that he can easily carry his phone and wallet with him while running errands and going to appointments. It tucks down nicely beside him, between his lap and the arm rest of his wheelchair.  The flap closure is large and easy to manipulate as it has no buttons or zippers, and the large flap helps to ensure that the contents inside the pouch don’t fall out.

While I was making this, which only took a couple of hours, my mind was racing with ideas on how to make this pouch cute and pretty and even into a purse with straps. I have some cute fabric flower shaped buttons that I think would add a lot of girliness to it, but I don’t think my husband would appreciate that, lol. So I might just have to make this again, tweak it here, change it there, add some flowers, some trim…of course, if YOU want to spice up the pattern at all, feel free! And I would love to see what you’ve come up with ☺.

Ok…so here’s the really simple pattern:

A Simple Pouch – Copyright Amanda Bryant 2017

Materials:

Peaches & Creme worsted weight 4 ply cotton yarn- 1 ball (2.5 oz/70.9 g; approximately 120 yards/109 meters) – the color I used, pictured above, is “Navy”. **I used almost exactly one full ball. I had probably about 15 or so inches of yarn left from the ball after I fastened off at the end.

5 mm hook

Stitch marker

Yarn needle, to weave in yarn tails

Gauge: 4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rounds= 1 inch

Finished size: approximately 5″×8″ , with a 1/2″ wide base (base consists of only the 1st round)

Instructions:

**be sure to remember to mark the beginning/end of each round with the stitch marker

Ch 31

Round 1- sc in 2nd Ch from hook and in each ch across, and then working around the backside of the foundation Ch,  sc in each ch across (60 sc)

Round 2- sc in each sc around (60 sc)

Rounds 3- 20- repeat Round 2

At the end of Round 20, flatten the pouch and sc over to the side edge (it was 6 sc for me). Ch 1 and turn, now you will work in rows instead of rounds, to create the flap.

Next- sc2tog,  26 sc across,  sc2tog,  ch 1, turn (28 sc)

Next- sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn (28 sc)

Repeat this last row until the flap is about 5 inches long, or until you’re just about out of yarn if you’re using the same yarn and hook size as I did.

Fasten off and weave in yarn tails with yarn needle.

Valentine Doll- Free Pattern

I had intended to post the pattern for this doll quite a few days ago, but life got in the way. And when I had the time to do it, I just didn’t feel up to it. But there’s still some time before Valentine’s Day in case you want to make this little doll. It only took me a couple of days to design and make it, so if you have at least a little bit of experience in amigurumi then you should have no problem getting it made in time to give it to that special little child.

The pattern is pretty much completely customizable. You can change the colors of the clothing, skin and hair. You can also change how to make the hair, if you’re familiar with how to make hair. Different accessories can be made, depending on what you want. And it was all made with little balls of left over yarn.

Valentine Doll Pattern

© Amanda Bryant 2016

Materials Used:

Left over balls of worsted weight yarn (I used all Red Heart Super Saver)

  • Color A (Skin, ears and nose)- Aran
  • Color B (Dress, Shorts, Hat and mouth)- Cherry Red
  • Color C (Shoes)- Black
  • Color D (Socks)- White
  • Color E (Heart, Trim, Purse and Hair Ties)- Light Pink
  • Color F (Hair)- Coffee

3.75 mm hook

9 mm black plastic safety eyes

Decorative button

Polyester Fiberfill

Stitch marker

yarn needle

Height of completed doll: about 10 inches.

Notes:

  • The head and body are crocheted as one piece. Arms, legs, ears and accessories/decorations are created separately and then sewn into place.
  • The hair is attached to the inside of the hat and then the hat and hair together are sewn to the head as one piece.
  • The skirt is crocheted directly onto the body using the free/unused front loops of Round 27 of the body. Hold the doll upside down and work in the round.
  • Use a stitch marker to note the beginning and end of each round.
  • Parts of the doll are made in a continuous, non-joining round. Some parts are joined however. Read the instructions carefully.
  • If you are using safety eyes, I recommend that when it is time to place them, you first stuff the head and mark where you want the eyes placed. Then, unstuff, attach the eyes, and re-stuff. It sounds like a bit of work, but helps assure the eyes are placed properly before you snap the backing onto the eyes permanently.

Instructions:

Head & Body:

Starting at the top of the head with Color A, make a magic ring.

Round 1- make 6 sc in the ring

Round 2- make 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Round 3- (sc in the first sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around (18 sc)

Round 4- (sc in ea of the first 2 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around (24 sc)

Round 5- (sc in ea of the first 3 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around (30 sc)

Rounds 6- 10- sc in ea sc around (30 sc)

Round 11- (sc in ea of the first 3 sc, sc2tog) repeat around (24 sc)

Round 12- (sc in ea of the first 2 sc, sc2tog) repeat around (18 sc)

**now would be a good time to place the safety eyes- between about rounds 6 & 7 (see notes)

Round 13- (sc in the first sc, sc2tog) repeat around (12 sc)

**stuff the head firmly

Round 14- (sc2tog) repeat around (6 sc)

Rounds 15-16- (neck)- sc in ea sc around (6 sc)

Round 17- make 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Round 18- make 2 sc in ea sc around (24 sc). Sl st in the next st and fasten off.

**stuff the neck firmly

Round 19- Join Color B with a sl st, ch 1, sc in the next sc and in ea sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (24 sc)

Rounds 20-24- Ch 1, sc in the next sc and in each sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (24 sc)

Round 25- Ch 1, (sc in ea of the first 3 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc)

Round 26- Ch 1, sc in the next sc and in ea sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc. (30 sc)

Round 27- Ch 1, in back loops only sc in the next sc and in each sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc) ** this is the round where the skirt will be crocheted onto)

Rounds 28- 29- Ch 1, in both loops again sc in the next sc and in each sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc)

Round 30- Ch 1, (sc in ea of the first 3 sc, sc2tog) repeat around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc. (24 sc)

Round 31- Ch 1, (sc in ea of the first 2 sc, sc2tog) repeat around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (18 sc)

**stuff the body firmly

Round 32- Ch 1, (sc in the first sc, sc2tog) repeat around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (12 sc)

Round 33- Ch 1, (sc2tog) repeat around. Join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail.

Using the yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the last 6 sts and pull closed tightly. Secure the yarn tail and weave it in.

Legs (make 2):

Starting at the foot, with Color C make a magic ring.

Round 1- make 6 sc in the ring

Round 2- make 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Rounds 3-4- sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Round 5- (sc in ea of the first 4 sc, sc2tog) repeat around (10 sc). Sl st in the next st and fasten off.

Round 6- Join Color D with a sl st, sc in each sc around (10 sc)

Round 7- sc in ea sc around (10 sc). Sl st in the next st and fasten off.

Round 8- Join Color A with a sl st, sc in ea sc around (10 sc)

**stuff the leg as work progresses

Rounds 9-11- sc in ea sc around (10 sc). After round 11 sl st in the next st and fasten off.

Round 12- Join Color B with a sl st, sc in ea sc around (10 sc)

Rounds 13-14- sc in ea sc around (10 sc). After round 14 sl st in the next st and fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

**Sew the legs to the bottom of the body. If you’d like your doll to be able to sit, first sew the top opening of the leg closed before sewing it to the body.

Arms (make 2):

Starting with the hand, using Color A, ch 5.

Round 1- sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in ea of the next 3 ch’s. Then, working in the round, sc in ea of the unused loops across the opposite side of the foundation chain. (8 sc)

Rounds 2-4- sc in ea sc around (8 sc)

Round 5- (sc in ea of the first 2 sc, sc2tog) twice (6 sc)

*stuff hand and continue to stuff arm as work progresses

Rounds 6- 9- sc in ea sc around (6 sc). After round 9 sl st in the next st and fasten off.

Round 10- Join Color B with a sl st and make 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Rounds 11-12- sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Round 13- (sc2tog) repeat around (6 sc)

**At the end of round 13 either sew the top of the arm opening closed with a yarn needle (using the long yarn tail after you fasten off), or, fold the opening closed and sc through both thicknesses (3 sc across). Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Sew arms to the sides of the doll, lining the arm up with round 19 of the body (where the dress color begins).

Hat:

Beginning at the crown of the hat with Color B make a magic ring.

Round 1- make 6 sc in the ring

Round 2- make 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Round 3- (sc in the first sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around (18 sc)

Round 4- (sc in ea of the first 2 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around (24 sc)

Round 5- (sc in ea of the first 3 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc) repeat around (30 sc). Join with a sl st to the next sc.

Round 6- Ch 1, in back loops only, sc in ea sc around, join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc)

Round 7- Ch 1, in both loops again, sc in ea sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc)

Round 8- Ch 1, in front loops only, sc in ea sc around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc). Fasten off.

Hair:

Cut 30- 6 inch strands of Color F. Fold one strand in half and hook it through the back unused loop of round 8 of the hat. Repeat with each of the other strands, having one folded strand hooked through each of the back loops of round 8 of the hat, for a total of 30 folded strands. If you would like longer hair, cut a longer strand. After all strands are hooked into place, sew the hat, at a slight angle towards the back of the head, making sure that the strands of hair don’t get stuck under the hat. Before completely stitching the hat to the head, add a tiny bit of stuffing under the hat. Trim the bangs, if desired.

(see the photo below for what the hair looks like attached to the inside of the hat)

Hair Ties (make 2):

With Color E, ch 30. Fasten off. Divide the hair evenly and tie each side into a pony tail.

Skirt:

Holding the doll upside down (so that the Right Side of the work is showing when completed), join Color B with a sl st to an unused front loop of round 27 of the body.

Round 1- Ch 1, sc in the next loop and in ea loop around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc (30 sc)

Round 2- Ch 1, (make 2 sc in the next sc, make 1 sc in the next sc) repeat around. Join with a sl st in the beginning sc( 45 sc)

Rounds 3-5- Ch 1, sc in ea sc around. Join with a sl st in the beginning sc (45 sc). At the end of Round 5 fasten off.

Round 6- Trim- Join Color E with a sl st, ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in the next st and in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (45 dc). Fasten off.

Ears (make 2):

With Color A, ch 2. Make 5 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Using a yarn needle, weave in the beginning tail to the backside of the ear. Using the long end-tail, sew the ears to either side of the head, at about rounds 7-9.

Nose:

With a long strand of Color A and using a yarn needle, make a few overlapping stitches.

Heart Motif (on front of dress):

Color E- I used a pattern that I found HERE. Since the chest of the doll isn’t very big, I made the heart using only round 1 of the pattern. I sewed it to the front of the doll and then sewed a decorative flower button into the middle of it.

Purse:

Color E- The heart shaped purse is made using the same heart pattern I used for the motif for the front of the doll’s dress. Again, it can be found HERE. I made two hearts (using both Round 1 and Round 2 this time) and then sewed them together, leaving the top of the purse opened. Next, I added a strap. The strap was made holding 2 strands of yarn together. I joined the yarn to the sewn edge of the purse, made a ch of 25 and then (careful to not twist the ch) attached it to the other sewn edge of the purse.  Then I made sure it was secured and weaved in all the loose ends. When completed, hang the purse strap over a shoulder (and then fill the purse with a little candy or two!)

Mouth:

Stitch the mouth on, as seen in the photo, with Color B.

And so there it is. I hope you enjoy making this little doll, and especially that the special child you give it to will cherish and love it forever 🙂

Happy Valentine’s Day!

Amanda