My First Crochet Washcloth- Free Pattern

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Well, this isn’t MY first crochet washcloth, as I’ve made millions of them (ok, maybe just 20 or so, lol), but I wanted to publish an easy pattern to go along with my SC Tutorial.  Since washcloths are usually one of the first projects a new crocheter makes, I thought this would be an appropriate pattern. Everyone can use a washcloth, right?

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My First Crochet Washcloth

Free Pattern

© Amanda Bryant 2018

Materials Used:

Peaches & Creme 100% cotton medium weight (“4”) yarn; 2.5 oz/70.9 g; approx. 120 yards/109 meters- 1 ball- Color “Navy”

size H/ 5 mm crochet hook

scissors

Measuring tape or ruler (to check your gauge as well as the size of the finished piece)

yarn needle (for weaving in yarn tails)

Gauge: 4 sc= 1 inch, 4 rows= 1 inch (hold a ruler or measuring tape next to your work. There should be 4 sc measuring 1 inch, and 4 rows should measure 1 inch. Following the gauge will help to ensure that your washcloth will be the same size as the one in this pattern. If your gauge is larger than what is shown here- for example, you have 3 sc in 1 inch-,  use a smaller crochet hook [try a 4.5 mm hook]. If your gauge is smaller than what is shown here- for example you have 5 sc in 1 inch-, use a larger crochet hook [try a 5.5 mm hook]. Always try to get as close to the correct gauge as possible, especially in garments, so that your work will turn out the same size as shown in the pattern.)

Finished Measurements:  about 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ (square)

Abbreviations Used (US Terminology):

Ch- chain

sc- single crochet

FC- foundation chain

RS- Right side (of work)

WS- Wrong side (of work)

Instructions:

Ch 35,

Row 1 (RS)- make 1 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook, and make 1 sc in each of the next ch’s of the FC, ch 1, turn (34 sc)

Row 2 (WS)- make 1 sc in the first sc, and make 1 sc in each of the next sc across to the end of the row, ch 1, turn (34 sc)

Repeat Row 2 until 9 1/2 inches long (Or desired length), finishing with a WS row (your last row worked will be a WS wrong row).

Fasten off, weave in yarn tails.

And there you have it! Your first washcloth! Congratulations!

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Bath Pouf- Free Pattern (With Photo Tutorial)

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Still in the theme of trying to use up my stash of yarn, most notably my cotton yarn, I thought I’d try my hand at designing a basic bath pouf. I know there are many patterns for them floating around out there, and they’re pretty much all the same, or close to the same. I wouldn’t be surprised at all if what I’ve created here already exists! (I hope not, but there’s never that guarantee!).  I’ve tried a number of them, but they’re always so thick and never dry properly. The ones here that I’ve created, I hope that you’ll agree that they aren’t quite as dense as other pouf patterns. Some people love, and swear by, these crocheted bath poufs, others are firmly set against them…it’s really a matter of what you personally prefer. **I must note that I’ve found that the better air circulation you have in your home, most notably in the bathroom, the better and faster any handmade bath pouf will dry.**

You’ll see in the photo above that one of those poufs looks different…I have a lot of Red Heart Scrubby (the polyester kind), and so I thought I would also make a pouf that can act as an exfoliant too! My thought was that it would make a great foot scrubber, or if you have a messy occupation or hobby, like painting or working in a garage, it would work wonders at helping get the extra filth or grease off.  Myself, well, it’s officially barefoot and sandal season and I need something to get my tootsies clean, lol.  And being polyester, you can just throw the pouf in the wash (machine wash warm, gentle cycle, tumble dry low…but you could hang dry it if you prefer). I also find that the polyester lathers up a bit better than the cotton.

The photo tutorial below shows the brightly colored/multicolored pouf being made. I changed colors with every round.

Before you begin making one of these, I must warn you that this is a huge yarn-eating pattern. I used left-overs, so I can’t really give you an exact measurement in how much yarn was used.  But it would be best if you buy at least 5 oz to 7 oz worth of yarn to make one pouf.

The first pouf I made with this pattern is the brown/white one. I used a 6.5 mm hook, but then changed to a 5.5 mm hook for the other two poufs. The 6.5 mm hook made it too loose, I think, but if that’s what you prefer, then by all means use the larger hook 🙂

Materials Used:

For the multi-colored pouf (looks blue in the photo above, but is the one in the photo tutorial below)– a 5.5 mm hook, Peaches & Creme 100% Cotton, medium (“4”) weight yarn, sold in 2.5 oz/70.9 g; approx. 120 yards/109 meters balls– a small amount in the color “Black Currant”, a small amount in the color “Bright Pink”, about a 1/4 to 1/2 ball in the color “Sunshine”, and almost one full ball in the color “Bright Blue”. (I was working with left-over balls of yarn, so I don’t know exact measurements, sorry).

For the brown/white pouf– a 6.5 mm hook, Peaches & Cream 100% Cotton, medium (“4”) weight yarn– in the color “Chocolate Milk”–, sold in 14 oz cones- again, this was left-overs, and it took up in between 1/4 to 1/2 of a cone.

For the yellow exfoliant scrubby- a 5.5 mm hook, Red Heart Scrubby 100% polyester, worsted (“4”) weight yarn–in the color “Duckie”–, sold in a 3.5 oz/100 g ; approximately 92 yards/85 meters balls.  And a small amount of the Peaches ‘n’ Creme cotton for the hanging loop and first round–in the color “Royal”. I used almost exactly one full ball of the polyester Scrubby. In fact, I was left with only about 100 inches/2.5 meters/2.7 yards. So if you use a larger hook, or your tension is looser than mine, you might want to buy an extra ball of this.

OH, and for all the poufs, make sure you use a stitch marker to mark the first dc of each round, so that it’s easier to see where you have to join at the end of each round.

Finished Measurements- the Multi-colored pouf and the Yellow scrubby pouf, approximately 5 inches in diameter; for the brown/white pouf, approximately 6 inches in diameter (using the larger hook).

Gauge: I don’t find that gauge is overly important because there are multiple stitches in each stitch, and the rounds have to become wavy and unruly. However, if you are keeping track, it’s roughly 4-5 dc in 1 inch. And 3 rounds of dc’s is about 2 1/2 inches. Since the stitches are so bunched up, it’s a bit hard for me to get an exact measurement.

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

ch- chain

sl st- slip stitch

dc- double crochet

Instructions: ***The instructions for all poufs are the same, just the color scheme is different. The instructions below show how to make the multi-colored pouf. Change your colors as you wish 🙂

With Black Currant,

Step 1- Ch 6, sl st to first ch to form a ring

 

Step 2- Ch 35, sl st into the first ch to form the hanging loop, then sl st into the small ring from step 1 

 

Round 1- Ch 2 (does not count as dc), make 20 dc in the smaller ring, join with sl st to the beg dc (20 dc) 

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Ch 2 (does not count as dc), make 20 dc in the smaller ring, join with sl st to the beg dc (20 dc)

Change to Bright Pink,

Round 2- Ch 2 (does not count as dc), make 3 dc in ea dc around, join with a sl st to the beg dc  (60 dc) (It will start to look wavy now, which it is suppose to do)

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Ch 2 (does not count as dc), 3 dc in ea dc around, join with a sl st to the beg dc  (60 dc)

Change to Sunshine,

Round 3- Ch 2 (does not count as a dc), make 3 dc in ea dc around, join with a sl st to the beginning dc (180 dc) (It’s getting really wavy now)

 

Change to Bright Blue,

Round 4- Ch 2 (does not count as a dc), make 3 dc in ea dc around, join with a sl st to the beginning dc (540 dc). Fasten off and weave in your loose ends.

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Voila! And this is what it looks like when all done! Pretty!

 

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Springtime Beanie- Free Pattern

I’m afraid I’m a little bit behind this week, as I haven’t gotten a chance to post my WIP Wednesday yet (not sure if I will, truth be told), but I can at least re-blog this pattern from January 2016. In some parts of the world it’s still cool enough for a springtime hat? I know that here in Albuquerque it’s more like summer. The socks have come off and the sandals are out of the closet ☀️😁
I’ve been thinking about revising this pattern, but for now I’m just working through my yarn stash, before I buy more!
Anyway, I hope you enjoy! Stay cool!
~Amanda~

Crochet On The Brain

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Still using up my leftover’s, I made this hat following the pattern I created for the You Are My Sunshine Infants Hat Pattern. There are a few differences, however.  First of all, I used size 5 crochet thread and a 3.25 mm hook, rather than yarn and the larger hook. Secondly, this one fits an adult, and I didn’t make a pattern for a child sized one (although going by gauge and textbook measurements, I could guess at the pattern for a child sized, if you’re interested). And last but not least, there is no pointy little brim on it, just a trim of hdc’s.

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Springtime Beanie Pattern

© Amanda Bryant 2016

Materials:

Bernat Handicrafter crochet thread size 5- Fresh Fern (Color A) and Iris (Color B)

3.25 mm hook

sewing or embroidery needle

Gauge: 6 clusters= 2 inches…

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Scrap Busting Cotton Facial Scrubbies- Free Pattern

This is a very simple, basic pattern. There are no special stitches, and there is nothing fancy whatsoever in their appearance. If you just want a quick project, you want to use up your little cotton leftovers, or you are just beginning to learn how to crochet in the round (and want tons of practice!), then this pattern is perfect for you! I use these scrubbies daily, and unless I were to gift them away, I don’t see the sense in making them elaborate for my own personal use.

I had LOADS of cotton left-overs in my stash. Actually, I still do, but I used up most of my variegated yarns making these little scrubbies (about 30 of them!). The solid colors (which I also have A LOT of) will be put toward making a different project.

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Also, if you are looking for a way to launder them in the washing machine, without them getting lost and mixed up with your clothing, check out THIS PATTERN for another quick make, also using leftover cotton yarn!

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Scrap Busting Cotton Facial Scrubbies

© Amanda Bryant 2018

Materials:

Leftover scraps of worsted weight cotton yarn- see photo at end of pattern- (all of mine are made using Peaches & Cream)

5.5 mm hook (or smaller if you prefer your stitches tighter).

Yarn needle, for weaving in ends

Finished Measurements: diameter- about 2 ¾ inch; circumference- about 8 ½ inches

Gauge: is not important. I like my scrubbies loosely stitched, so they aren’t quite so hard on my face. If you would like your stitches closer together, you can go down in hook size.

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

Ch- chain

Sc- single crochet

Sl st- slip stitch

Instructions:

Ch 2

Round 1- make 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook,  join with a sl st to the beginning sc (8 sc)

Round 2- Ch 1, make 2 sc in same sc as join, and 2 sc in each sc around, join with a sl st to the beginning sc (16 sc)

Round 3- Ch 1, make 2 sc in the same sc as join,  make 1 sc in the next sc, *(make 2 sc in the next sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the beginning sc (24 sc)

Round 4- Ch 1, make 2 sc in the same sc as join,  make 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sc, *(make 2 sc in the next sc, make 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sc), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the beginning sc (32 sc)

Fasten off and weave in yarn tails.

Shown in this photo below is an example of the amount of yarn needed…this little ball of yarn will make 2 scrubbies. I did take a photo of how much yarn is needed for just 1 scrubbie, but after later review the photo just didn’t turn out nice (it was too dark).

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Multi-Purpose Cotton Mesh Bag- Free Pattern

I first created this simple Mesh Stitch bag to be used as a laundry bag for little crocheted face scrubbies, so they wouldn’t get lost amongst the other items in the washing machine. However, as I was busy crocheting, my mind started thinking of other uses for the bag. Depending on the size, you could also use the bag to wash your delicates/lingerie (ie/ bra straps not becoming tangled up with other items in the wash), a bath toy bag, or even a bag to hang dry your camping dishes in.  This would also make a lovely gift bag! Myself, I will be using the smaller bag for laundering face scrubbies, and the larger bag, I will buy some suction cups with hooks on them, and hang the bag in the bathtub for bath toys!

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Multi-Purpose Cotton Mesh Bag

© 2018 Amanda Bryant

Materials Used:

Peaches & Cream cotton yarn (I had about a ½ cone of yarn- about 7 oz worth- leftover from another project, and I was able to make two of these bags from it, with plenty remaining for *probably* a third bag)

Size 5.75 mm hook

Stitch markers

Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

Ch- chain

Dc/Dcs- double crochet/s

Sk- skip

St- stitch

Sp/Sps- space/spaces

Ch Sp- chain space

Gauge: in (dc, ch 1) pattern, 8 stitches= 4 inches, and 8 rounds= 4 inches

Finished Measurements:  smaller bag- 5 inches wide x 9 ½ inches tall; larger bag- 7 ½ inches wide x 9 ½ inches tall

Instructions:

For the smaller bag- Ch 23; (for the larger bag- Ch 33). To make a bag of a different size from the pattern below, simply make a foundation ch of any even number + 3. Then follow the pattern instructions as written.

Round 1- Dc in 5th ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 1, dc), ch 1, *(sk next ch, dc in next ch, ch 1) repeat from * across row. Turn work to work in other side of foundation chain. Sk the first ch, dc in first skipped ch of foundation chain , ch 1, **(dc in next skipped ch, ch 1), repeat from ** across, join with a sl st in the beginning dc (the 2nd ch of the foundation chain)  = 20 ch sps & 20 dcs (30 ch sps & 30 dcs) around.

Round 2- sl st in the first ch sp, ch 3 (counts as a dc, ch 1), *(dc in the next ch sp, ch 1), repeat from * around. Join with a sl st in the second ch of the beginning ch-3

Repeat round 2 until desired length (on both of my bags I repeated round 2 for a total of 18 rounds)

**Optional Hanging Loop (if you don’t want a hanging loop, skip this step and proceed to “last round”)– Place a st marker in a ch-sp where you want the hanging loop to be (or on either side of the bag if you want 2 hanging loops, for example if you want to use the bag as a bath toy bag- in which case you could hang it off of 2 suction cups)- SEE PHOTO BELOW *the safety pins are my stitch markers!

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Next, ch 2 (counts as a dc), then dc in each ch-sp and in each dc up to the stitch marker. *Dc in the sp where the st marker is placed. Ch 10 (or longer, if you want a bigger hanging loop), sl st in the first ch (-the ch furthest from the hook, which will form a loop). Dc in next dc, and in each ch-sp and dc around (if making 2 hanging loops, repeat from * to end of round). Join with a sl st to the beginning dc. Fasten off. Your bag should resemble the photo below:

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Last round (only if you did not make a hanging loop)- ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in each ch-sp and dc around, join with a sl st to beg dc= 40 dc around (60 dc around).  Fasten off. Your bag should resemble the photo above, minus the hanging loop.

**Optional- Chain tie/drawstring- for the smaller bag ch 70, for the larger bag ch 100

Weave ch tie through the ch spaces in the round before the last round. Or, instead of making a chain, you could use a long shoe lace as the tie. If you are using it as a laundry bag,  I don’t recommend using ribbon as it would fray in the wash. But ribbon would look nice if you are using it as a gift bag!

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Weave in all loose ends.

 

 

Olivia’s Chocolate Milk Hoodigan- Done!

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Catchy name, huh? lol

I’m happy to announce that this sweater is finally DONE! Yippee! I am very, very, very, VERY excited about it, as it’s my biggest crocheting accomplishment to date, aside from actually learning to crochet. It is the first sweater that I’ve designed on my own, and it wasn’t as painstaking to do as I had originally thought it would be.  And I finished it while there’s still a chill in the air! Woot! Woot! lol. Although it was in the low 80’s for a couple of days this past week, yesterday it cooled down to the 50’s and isn’t suppose to get really warm again for at least a few more days 🙂

My intention was to publish the pattern for it here as soon as it was completed, but there are a few things that need to be worked out and changed about it. But all in all, it looks great (gotta love my humbleness, lol), despite any flaws in the pattern.

It took about 1 1/2- 14 oz cones of Peaches & Creme cotton yarn (so, approximately 21 oz/600 g; 1059 yards/967.5 meters), using a size J-6.00 mm hook and the “Moss Stitch”. The colorway is called “Chocolate Milk” (obviously how I came up with the name for this sweater). Oh, and 7- 3/4 inch buttons. I can’t help but wonder if an odd number of buttons looks ok? It’s the only way I could work out the buttonhole band so that all of the buttons were evenly placed.

I would like to attempt to make this sweater again, but perhaps using acrylic yarn instead. This would mean working out the gauge again with the slightly different yarn. I would use the same weight class, but of course that doesn’t mean it would be the same thickness.  Having said this, I need a break from this “big” project for a while, so I will be working on simpler, and more mindless, projects until I get the ambition to make this sweater again.

Here are a few more photos.  See the bunny in this first one?

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It was a wonderful afternoon for a stroll in the new sweater. Olivia’s very pleased with it. In fact, she gave me two thumbs up!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this read.

Until next time, Happy Hooking!

Amanda

Easter Gift Bag (free pattern)

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Easter Gift Bag

© Amanda Bryant 2018

 

Materials Used-

Peaches & Creme 100% Cotton worsted weight 4-ply yarn, 2 oz/56.7 g, approximately 95 yards/86 meters, color “Sweet Pea Stripes” (2 ½ balls)

Size J/10- 6.00 mm crochet hook

Yarn needle

Measurements– about 8 ½ inches tall, 23 inch circumference at base, 18 inch circumference at top

Gauge– in puff st pattern 4 rounds and 4 puff sts = 2 inches; in hdc pattern 4 rounds and 8 hdc’s= 2 inches

Abbreviations/Terms Used (US Terminology)

Ch- chain

y/o- yarn over

st/sts- stitch/stitches

Sp/sps- space/spaces

Sl st- slip stitch

Hdc- half double crochet

Hdc2tog- half double crochet two stitches together

Puff Stitch Group- where there are 2 puff sts in one space (which makes the st increases in each round. The increase is made by working 2 puff sts in that one space.)

Special Stitches

Puff Stitch- *(y/o, insert hook into st, y/o and pull loop up) 4 times, y/o and pull loop through all 9 sts on the hook, ch 1 to secure the top of the puff st (leave a bit of slack when doing the y/o and pulling up loop, as the work could get a bit stiff and hard to manipulate)

Instructions:

Ch 4, sl st in first ch to make a ring

Round 1- ch 1, make 6 puff sts in the ring, join with a sl st to the top of the first puff st (6 puff sts)

Round 2-  make 2 puff sts in the sp between the first 2 puff sts, and make 2 puff sts in between each of the next puff sts around to the end, join with a sl st to the top of the first puff st (12 puff sts)

Round 3- make 2 puff sts in the sp in the middle of the first puff st group, make 1 puff st in each space until the next puff st group, *(make 2 puff sts in the sp in the middle of this puff st group, make 1 puff st in each space until the next puff st group), repeat from * around to the end, join with a sl st to the top of the first puff st (18 puff sts)

Rounds-4-6-  Repeat Round 3, making 6 increases in each round. (Round 4= 24 puff sts, Round 5= 30 puff sts, Round 6= 36 puff sts)

Rounds 7-11- make 1 puff st in each sp around,  join with a sl st to the top of the beginning puff st (36 puff sts)

Round 12- Ch 2 (counts as a hdc here and throughout), hdc in the first sp,  hdc in the top of the next puff st,  hdc in each of the next puff sts and sps. Join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2. (72 hdc)

Round 13- Ch 2, hdc in ea of the next 9 hdc, hdc2tog,  *(hdc in each of the next 10 hdc, hdc2tog), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2 (66 hdc)

Round 14- Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around, join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2 (66 hdc)

Round 15- Ch 2, hdc in ea of the next 8 hdc, hdc2tog,  *(hdc in each of the next 9 hdc,  hdc2tog), repeat from * around,  join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2 (60 hdc)

Round 16- Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around,  join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2  (60 hdc)

Round 17- Ch 2, hdc in each of the next 7 hdc,  hdc2tog,  *( hdc in each of the next 8 hdc, hdc2tog), repeat from * around,  join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2  (54 hdc)

Rounds 18-23- Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around, join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2 (54 hdc)

Round 24- Ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch-1), sk next hdc, *(hdc in next hdc, ch 1, sk next hdc), repeat from * around to the end, join with a sl st to the 2nd ch of the beginning ch-3 (27 hdc and 27 ch-1 sps)

Round 25- Ch 2, hdc in first ch sp, *(hdc in next hdc, hdc in next ch sp), repeat from * around to the end, join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2 (54 hdc)

Round 26- Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around, join with a sl st to the beginning ch-2 (54 hdc)

Next- Ruffle Edging- Ch 3, sl st in the same st, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in each hdc around to the end, sl st into the beginning sl st, fasten off.

Drawstring-

ch 108, fasten off. Weave in through ch sts from round 24. Pull drawstring tightly and tie to close.

Weave in all yarn tails with the yarn needle, and fill with goodies for someone special!