When I first started creating this case, it was intended to be an eyeglasses case. It was also suppose to be a gift for my mom for Mother’s Day. But I didn’t get it done in time. I had to perfect it a couple of times first. And then a few days ago I was Skyping with my mother and she asked what I was making, so I showed her. She said “Father’s Day is coming up and you’re dad needs a new case”…so, hint hint, lol. Blue is my mom’s color, not my dad’s color. So I made another one, in green, for my dad.
It doesn’t have to be an eyeglasses case. It can be used for many different things…crochet hooks, personal items, pens or pencils…anything that you don’t want to lose in the bottom of your purse or bag.
The case will look good in any color, and you can personalize it too…from choosing a special decorative button to sewing on crocheted appliques or flowers in a theme that appeals to whoever will be using it.
It is made with Peaches & Creme worsted weight cotton and will hold up nicely should it need to be washed.
This project works up quickly, in about an hour depending on your crochet skill level. And it’s simple enough for a beginning crocheter.
Just In Case- Free Pattern
© 2017 Amanda Bryant
Peaches & Creme Worsted Weight 4-Ply Cotton Yarn (2.5 oz/70.9 g) Approx. 120 yards/109 m **1 ball will make 3 cases*** (1st Case- Main Color <MC>: Bright Blue, Contrasting Color<CC>: White) (2nd Case- Main Color<MC>: Forest Green, Contrasting Color<CC>: White)
5 mm crochet hook
18 mm button
Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):
MC- main color
CC- contrasting color
FC- foundation chain
sl st- slip stitch
sc- single crochet
sc2tog- single crochet two single crochet together (decrease)
Gauge: 4 stitches= 1 inch; 4 rounds=1 inch; 4 rows= 1 inch
Finished Measurements: 6 1/2 inches x 3 inches
The main part of this project is worked in alternating back loop and front loop single crochet, and is worked in the round with no joins. The flap of the case is made in rows with a ch-1 at the end of each row before turning.
When working in the round, be sure to mark the end/beg of each round with a stitch marker, and move the stitch marker up with each round as work progresses.
Scroll to the end of the pattern to find helpful photos.
With MC, ch 13
Round 1- working in the back bump of the FC, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, and in each of the next 11 ch across (see photos below: A is what the FC looks like from the front side. B shows what the backside of the FC looks like. You make your sc’s into the back bumps of the FC, which is shown with the orange arrow). DO NOT TURN. Work in the round, and make a sc in each of the unused loops of the FC (Photo C shows what Round 1 will look like when completed). You will have 24 sc’s around.
Round 2- make 1 sc in the back loop of the first sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc, (make 1 sc in the back loop of the next sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc). Repeat () around, ending with a sc in the front loop. (24 sc)
Rounds 3- 26- repeat round 2 (24 sc) do not fasten off
Creating the flap: (you will now be working in rows instead of rounds)
Flatten the work. You should have 4 sts already worked from the edge (the last 4 sts of the previous round. See Photo D. The orange arrow points to where the 4 sts are).
Row 1- make 1 sc in the back loop of the first sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc, (make 1 sc in the back loop of the next sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc). Repeat () 2 more times, ending with a sc in the front loop, for a total of 8 sts. These 8 sts, plus the last 4 sts of the previous round will be the 12 sts used for the beginning of the flap. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2- make 1 sc in the back loop of the first sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc, (make 1 sc in the back loop of the next sc, make 1 sc in the front loop of the next sc). Repeat () 4 more times, ending with a sc in the front loop, for a total of 12 sts. Ch 1, turn. (Photo E shows what your work should look like now).
Row 3- now working in both loops from this point on, sc2tog in the first 2 sts , make 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog in the last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
Row 4- make 1 sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
Row 5- sc2tog in the first 2 sts, make 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog in the last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
Row 6- make 1 sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
Row 7- sc2tog in the first 2 sts, make 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog in the last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
Row 8- (this row creates the button hole)- make 1 sc in ea of the first 2 sts, ch 2, sk the next 2 sts, make 1 sc in ea of the last 2 sc. Ch 1, turn. (4 sc and 1 ch-2 sp)
Row 9- make 1 sc in ea of the first 2 sts, make 2 sc in the ch-2 sp, make 1 sc in ea of the last 2 sts. (6 sc) Fasten off.
Join CC with a sl st to the first unworked st of Round 26 (See Photo F. The orange arrow indicates which st to start at). Ch 1. Make a sl st in the next st, and in ea of the next unworked sts of Round 26. Sc evenly up the side edge of the flap, making 2 sc in 1 stitch at the top corner. Continue to make 1 sc in ea sc along the top edge of the flap (which is Row 9). Continue to sc evenly down the second side edge of the flap, making 2 sc in 1 stitch at the top corner of this edge as well. (See Photo G. The orange arrows indicate where the 2sc’s are placed on either top corner of the side edges). Join with a sl st to the first sl st and fasten off.
Weave in all yarn ends. Sew button to the front of the case (before securing the button, be sure to position it correctly so that when the flap is folded over the button lines up with the button hole).
And Voila! You are done!