Plum Crazy Slouchy Hat- Free Pattern

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Plum Crazy Slouchy Hat

© Amanda Bryant 2019

QUEUE OR FAVORITE ❤ THIS PATTERN ON RAVELRY!

Materials Used:

Cloudborn Fibers Highland DK 100% Fine Highland Wool (164 yds/150 m; 1.8 oz/50 g)- about 1 ½  hanks (or approx. 246 yds/225 m; 2.7 oz/75 g)- Color 18-101 “Plum Heather”

Size H/5 mm crochet hook

Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Stitch marker (for beg/end of rounds)

Gauge: 4 DC= 1” and 3 rounds= 1” in DC pattern

Finished Measurements/Sizing: Adult small to medium. Length 10 ½ “, circumference (of ribbed cuff) 17” (unstretched; stretches to snuggly fit a 21” head)

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

Ch- chain

Dc- double crochet

Dc2tog- double crochet two stitches together

sp(s)- space(s)

st(s)- stitch(es)

Sl- slip

Sl st- slip stich

Fpdc- front post double crochet

Bpdc- back post double crochet

Beg- begin(ning)

Ea- each

Special Notes:

  • When making dc’s, they are made in the spaces between the established dc’s, up until the ribbing, in which case the ribbing is made with post stitches.
  • The Ch-3 at the beginning of each round counts as a dc and therefore is the first st of each round.
  • If you would like your hat cuff to be a bit looser than my measurements shown above, omit round 14. Working the ribbing (fpdc, bpdc) rounds will still work out as shown, but you will be working with 72 sts instead of 64 sts.

Instructions:

Beg at the top of the hat, Ch 3, join with a sl st to the 1st chain make a ring

Round 1- Ch 3 (counts as a DC here and throughout), make 7 DC in the ring, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3 (8 DC)

Round 2- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, make 1 DC in same sp, * (make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3 (16 DC)

Round 3- sl st into sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, make 1 DC in same sp, make 1 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC), repeat from * around, join (24 DC)

Round 4- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, make 1 DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 2 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 2 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3.  (32 DC)

Round 5- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 3 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 3 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3.  (40 DC)

Round 6- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 4 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 4 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (48 DC)

Round 7- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 5 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 5 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (56 DC)  

Round 8- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 6 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 6 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (64 DC)

Round 9- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 7 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 7 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (72 DC)  

Round 10- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC in same sp, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 8 DC, *(make 2 DC in the sp between the next 2 DC, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 8 DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (80 DC)  

Round 11- (work even)- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC into each sp between each of the next DC around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3 (80 DC)

Repeat round 11 until hat measures 8” from beginning

Still working in the sp between sts:

Round 12-  sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 7 DC, dc2tog over the next 2 sps, *(make 1 DC in ea sp between each of the next 8 DC, dc2tog over the next 2 sps), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (72 DC)

Round 13- (work even)-  sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC into each sp between each of the next DC around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (72 DC)

Round 14-  sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 6 DC, dc2tog over the next 2 sps, *(make 1 DC in each sp between each of the next 7 DC, dc2tog over the next 2 sps), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (64 DC)

Round 15- (work even)- sl st into the sp between the first two DC, Ch 3, DC into each sp between each of the next DC around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (64 DC)

Round 16- do not sl st to sp. Ch 1. Make 1 Fpdc in the same st as the join was made in, make 1 Bpdc in the next DC, *(make 1 Fpdc in the next DC, make 1 bpdc in the next DC), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the first fpdc. (32 fpdc and 32 bpdc)

Round 17- Ch 1. Make 1 Fpdc in the same fpdc as the join was made in, make 1 Bpdc in the next bpdc,  *(make 1 Fpdc in the next fpdc, make 1 bpdc in next bpdc), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the first fpdc. (32 fpdc and 32 bpdc)

Repeat Round 17 until ribbing measures 2.5”. Fasten off.
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Caribbean Dreams Earwarmer Headband- Free Pattern

QUEUE OR FAVORITE ❤ THIS PATTERN ON RAVELRY!

Caribbean Dreams Ear Warmer Headband

© Amanda Bryant 2019

Materials Used:

Cloudborn Fibers Superwash Highland Worsted Wool yarn-  color “Caribbean”. About 100-125 yards. (200 yards/184 meters, 3.5 oz/100 g, Worsted “4” weight)

Size I/9 5.5 mm hook

Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)

Scissors

Tape measure

Finished Measurements: Width of band about 3 ¾ inch, circumference 20 ½ inches (will stretch comfortably to 22 inches)

Gauge: 5 dc and 2 rows of dc- 1 inch

Special Stitch: X-ST- sk the next st, DC in the next st, DC in the sk st (working behind the DC just made).

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

Ch- chain

RS- right side (of work)

WS- wrong side (of work)

DC- double crochet

X-ST- cross stitch (see special stitch explanation above)

FC- foundation chain

Sl st- slip stitch

Sk- skip

St- stitch

Instructions:

Ch 18

Row 1 (RS)- DC in 4th Ch from hook (the ch-3 made counts as the first DC) and in each of the next 4 ch. **Sk the next ch, DC in the next ch, DC in the sk ch (working behind the DC just made). Repeat from ** 2 more times (for a total of 3 X-STS). DC in each of the next 5 ch. Turn. (10 DC and 3 X-STS made.)

Row 2  (WS)- Ch 3 (counts as a DC here and throughout). DC in each of the next 4 DC. X-ST in each of the next 3 x-sts. DC in each of the last 5 DC. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until band is 20 ½  inches long (or your desired length), ending by working a RS row.

Next fold the headband in half lengthwise, with RS’s facing each other, (FC end and last row worked). Ch 1, sl st across (through each DC and each unused loop from the FC). Cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in yarn tails.

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Happy New Year, My Apologies, and a Recent Make

First off, I know that I’m a bit late, but Happy New Year! It’s only (or already, depending on how you look at it) the 11th day of 2019. At least it’s still January, so I can get away with this post, right? 😘

For the past couple of months my brain hasn’t been on crochet. I was derailed by the knitting train. I’ve been on a knit sweater kick, and when these sorts of moods strike, I find that I just have to roll with it. But know that it’s not only crochet I’ve been ignoring…I’ve been ignoring the whole blog thing in general. While I was busy knitting. I wasn’t even working on my knitting blog either! Having said all this, I currently do have a knit sweater on the needles…and hopefully I’ll be able to finish it in a timely manner now that I’m back to blogging!

I did make one crocheted “thing”. For no particular reason other than to use up some of my stash, and to try to sell it on Facebook for a bit of cash (hey, that rhymed!). But no, it did not sell 😪. It’s the Twin Sweater Set by Gayle Bunn on the Red Heart website. I made this cute little set for my (now 4 year old) daughter Olivia while I was still expecting her, which I’ll include a photo of also.

So here is the photo of the set I recently made:

I used some Bernat Baby Sport for it, and I think a 4 mm crochet hook. The gauge actually turned out perfectly!

And a photo of the one I made for Olivia. I think I also used Bernat Baby Sport for that one too. I no longer have this set that I made for her, which she wore home from the hospital, because our “friend” who stored our belongings for us for a couple of months when we became homeless kindly “donated” it, along with all of our other belongings. I try not to hold grudges, but when someone you trust trashes all of your belongings, it’s very hard not to. Most things can be replaced.

Anyhow, here is a photo of the set that I made for Olivia. She was maybe a week or two old in this photo. I omitted the edging on the button hole band, but it’s still pretty much the same.

So…I am back to the blog now…Hurray! I have some new ideas in mind, both for the blog as well as projects and designs.

Over the past couple of days I’ve been working when Olivia allows me time, lol, on a new Facebook page where I can further promote my original designs. When it’s complete I’ll post about it here so you can all give it a thumbs up. The COTB fan page doesn’t exist anymore on Facebook, because I permanently deleted the account I used to manage it.

I have a lot of work ahead of me as I get back into the swing of things. But I think it’ll all be good in the end.

Until next time,

Amanda

Flutter Baby Top- Free Pattern From Lion Brand

I had this pattern downloaded and saved in the cloud for awhile now. I had intended on making it for my daughter Olivia. The largest size available is 3 to 4 years. Olivia turned 4 yesterday. I had a feeling it wouldn’t fit her, as she’s more the size of a 5 year old, but I wanted to make it anyhow, just to see. Plus, I don’t like having all of these patterns downloaded yet never use them. So, I decided to give it a go.

The pattern is super easy, but I DID hit a snag. While the copy I had was already a corrected version, I discovered along the way that there were even more corrections made to it. So I had to download it again, the corrected version. You can find this version by clicking here: Flutter Baby Top.

The shrug DOES fit Olivia, however, it’s rather snug. So, it’ll be given away or donated. I don’t mind really. I’m happy that I finally used the pattern. Perhaps it would fit a text book size 3 to 4 year old girl.

I used Bernat Baby Sport (color Baby Pink, left over from another project), and a 3.75 mm hook. The gauge was spot-on.

Oh, and also, within the pattern download itself, there is a link provided for an adult sized shrug, but to be to honest, I didn’t even check it out. I’m not a shrug kind of person really.

Crochet Christmas Baubles- Free Pattern by MJ of Hello Yellow Yarn

Yesterday I decided to Google crocheted Christmas decoration images. I don’t decorate for Christmas myself, but thought that maybe a friend or family member might appreciate some handcrafted decorations.  One image in particular jumped out at me, and when I clicked the link I was brought to Hello Yellow’s Crochet Christmas Baubles free pattern!

It is a super-simple and straightforward pattern. Great for a beginner (it even has a link to MJ’s photo tutorial on how to work the invisible decrease!), and it’s also a great way to use up leftover yarns!

I did not hesitate…I got out my supplies and set to work. Maybe an hour later I was done one bauble! I did however change one thing…I don’t own a hot glue gun (to attach the star to the front of the bauble), so I improvised with sewing 🙂

Here is how my Crochet Christmas Bauble turned out (I’m not sure if my star looks more like a flower, or not…):

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Child’s Mitten & Hat Set- Free Pattern

I’ve actually been done with making this set for a whole month now, but last night I FINALLY remembered to type up the instructions for it! Olivia has a few hat & mitten sets that I’ve made her, so I alternate which set she wears. When she wore this set yesterday it reminded me that I hadn’t yet shared the pattern here. So, without further ado…

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QUEUE OR FAVORITE ❤ THIS PATTERN ON RAVELRY!

Child’s Mitten & Hat Set

© 2018 Amanda Bryant

Materials Used:

Caron Simply Soft 100% Acrylic medium (“4”) weight yarn, (6 oz/170.1 g, 315 yards/288 meters)- about ⅓ of a skein- Color “Orchid”

5.5 mm hook

Optional 5 mm hook for a tighter cuff

2 stitch markers- 1 for marking beg/end of rounds, 1 for marking thumbhole placement

Yarn needle- for weaving in ends

Scissors

Sizing: to fit a child about 4 years old

Finished Measurements (using 5.5 mm hook throughout):

Mittens- Total length 7 ½”; ribbed cuff length 2 ½”; ribbed cuff circumference 7”; fingertip to wrist length 5”; thumb length 2”; hand circumference (bottom of hand at wrist 7”) (around widest point of fingers 6”).

Hat- Total length 8”; circumference 20”; Ribbed cuff length 2”

Gauge: 10 rounds= 2”, 9 sc= 2”

Abbreviations Used (American Terminology):

Ch- chain

Sc- single crochet

Dc- double crochet

Hdc- half double crochet

Fpdc- front post double crochet

Bpdc- back post double crochet

Sc2tog- single crochet 2 (sts) together

Sl st- slip stitch

St(s)- stitch(es)

Beg- beginning

PM- place marker

Mitten Instructions:

Beginning at the top of the mitten (fingertips),  with 5.5 mm hook ch 7

Round 1- make 1 sc in the second ch from the hook and in the next 5 ch. Then begin working in rounds and make 1 sc in each of the 6 unused loops of the foundation ch, join with a sl st to the beg sc (12 sc)

Round 2- Ch 1, make 2 sc in the same st as join, make 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sc, make 2 sc in ea of the next 2 sc, make 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sc, make 2 sc in the last sc, join with a sl st to the beg sc (16 sc)

Round 3- Ch 1, make 1 sc in the same st as join, make 1 sc in ea of the next 15 sc, join with a sl st to the beg sc (16 sc)

Round 4- Ch 1, make 2 sc in the same st as join, make 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sc, make 2 sc in ea of the next 2 sc, make 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sc, make 2 sc in the last sc, join with a sl st to the beg sc (20 sc)

Round 5- Ch 1, make 1 sc in the same st as join, make 1 sc in ea of the next 19 sc, join with a sl st to the beg sc (20 sc)

Round 6- Ch 1, make 2 sc in the same st as join, make 1 sc in ea of the next 8 sc, make 2 sc in ea of the next 2 sc, make 1 sc in ea of the next 8 sc, make 2 sc in the last sc, DO NOT JOIN (24 sc)

Round 7- DO NOT CH 1- working in a continuous spiral, make 1 sc in ea sc around, DO NOT JOIN (24 sc)

Repeat Round 7 until mitten is 3 inches from the beg (7 more rounds)

Create Thumbhole:

Round 8- Flatten the mitten and PM in the edge sc. Sc in each sc to the st before the marker. Loosely Ch 10 and make 1 sc in the marked sc (then remove the marker). Make 1 sc in ea of the remaining sc around to the end of the round (34 sts)

Round 9- Make 1 sc in ea sc and in each ch around to the end of the round (34 sc)

Bottom Of The Hand:

Rounds 10-13- Make 1 sc in ea sc around to the end of the round (34 sc)

Round 14- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 15 sc, sc2tog, make 1 sc in ea of the next 15 sc, sc2tog (2 decreases made= 32 sc)

Round 15- Make 1 sc in ea sc around (32 sc)

Round 16- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 2 sc, sc2tog, *(make 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sc, sc2tog), repeat from * around (8 decreases made= 24 sc)

Round 17- Make 1 sc in ea sc around, join with a sl st to the first sc (24 sc)

Ribbed Cuff:

(for a snug cuff, switch to a 5 mm hook)

Round 1- Ch 3 (counts as a dc), make 1 dc in ea of the next 23 sc, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3 (24 dc)

Round 2- Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), make 1 fpdc in the next dc, *(make 1 bpdc in the next dc, make 1 fpdc in the next dc) repeat from * around to the end of the round, ending with a fpdc in the last dc, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-2

Rounds 3-8- Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), make 1 fpdc in the first fpdc, *(make 1 bpdc in the next bpdc, make 1 fpdc in the next fpdc), repeat from * around, ending with a fpdc in the last fpdc, join with a sl st to the beg ch-2. After Round 8, fasten off.

Thumb:

(Using a 5.5 mm hook again)

Round 1- Attach yarn with a sc in the first ch st (from the unused loops of the ch-10 used for creating the thumb opening) to the left of where the thumb opening meets the hand (PM in this sc, as it will be the first sc of ea round). Make 1 sc in ea of the next 9 ch sts (the unused loops of the ch-10 for creating the thumb opening), then make 2 sc in the space between the first and the last sc- which is the space before the marked first sc-  (you will have 10 sc in the ch-10 sts, plus 2 additional sc equalling 12 sc total for the thumb). DO NOT join, as the thumb will be worked in a spiral. Make sure you move the marker up as you progress with each round.

Round 2-  Make 1 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Round 3- sc2tog, make 1 sc in ea of the next 8 sc, sc2tog (2 decreases made= 10 sc)

Rounds 4-5- Make 1 sc in ea sc around (10 sc)

Round 6- sc2tog, make 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (2 decreases made= 8 sc)

Round 7- Make 1 sc in ea sc around (8 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail.

Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the 8 sc. Pull tightly to close the hole and then secure with a knot (on the inside of the thumb).

Weave all yarn tails in.

Repeat this set of instructions for the second mitten.

Hat Instructions:

Using the 5.5 mm hook, make an adjustable ring

Round 1- Make 6 sc in the ring (6 sc)

Round 2- Make 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Round 3- Make 1 sc in the first sc, make 2 sc in the next sc, *(make 1 sc in the next sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around (18 sc)

Round 4- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 2 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc, *(make 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around (24 sc)

Round 5- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 3 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc, *(make 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around (30 sc)

Round 6- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 4 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc, *(make 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around (36 sc)

Round 7- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 5 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc, *(make 1 sc in ea of the next 5 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around (42 sc)

Round 8- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 6 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc, *(make 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around (48 sc)

Round 9- Make 1 sc in ea sc around (48 sc)

Round 10- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 7 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc, *(make 1 sc in ea of the next 7 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around (54 sc)

Round 11- Make 1 sc in ea sc around (54 sc)

Round 12- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 8 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc, *(make 1 sc in ea of the next 8 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around (60 sc)

Round 13- Make 1 sc in ea sc around (60 sc)

Round 14- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 9 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc, *(make 1 sc in ea of the next 9 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around (66 sc)

Round 15- Make 1 sc in ea sc around (66 sc)

Round 16- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 10 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc, *(make 1 sc in ea of the next 10 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around (72 sc)

Round 17- Make 1 sc in ea sc around (72 sc)

Round 18- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 11 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc, *(make 1 sc in ea of the next 11 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around (78 sc)

Round 19- Make 1 sc in ea sc around (78 sc)

Round 20- Make 1 sc in ea of the first 12 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc, *(make 1 sc in ea of the next 12 sc, make 2 sc in the next sc), repeat from * around (84 sc)

Rounds 21- 32 (or until hat measures 6 ½” from the beginning)- Make 1 sc in ea sc around (84 sc in ea round). At the end of the last round, join with a sl st to the beg sc.

Ribbed Cuff:

Round 1- Ch 3 (counts as a dc), make 1 dc in ea sc around, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-3 (84 dc)

Round 2- Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), make 1 fpdc in the next dc, *(make 1 bpdc in the next dc, make 1 fpdc in the next dc), repeat from * around to the end of the round, ending with a fpdc in the last dc, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-2

Rounds 3-6- Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), make 1 fpdc in the first fpdc, *(make 1 bpdc in the next bpdc, make 1 fpdc in the next fpdc), repeat from * around to the end of the round, ending with a fpdc in the last fpdc, join with a sl st to the top of the beg ch-2

**If you would like a longer ribbed cuff, simply repeat the last round until you reach your desired length.

At the end of Round 6, fasten off. Using your yarn needle, weave in all yarn tails.

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(Olivia rarely stands still, so please don’t mind the motion shot of her hands, lol)

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WIP Wednesday

Look at this, TWO weeks in a row I’ve remembered about the whole WIP Wednesday posts! It does help that it’s wet and cold outside, a good day to stay indoors and do some website related stuff! I’ve already published a new post this morning, Making It Fit- A Hat-Sizing Guideline, and I just published a post about my knit WIP on Sometime’s, She Knits (yes, I’m up to two WIP’s again, instead of just one). After this post I’m hoping to get some work done on my next COTB newsletter. Sign Up For The Newsletter Here! so that you don’t miss a thing!

So…this is a photo of what I’ve been crocheting this week:1031181022529516380.jpg

With a close-up of the bobble-stitches:

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It’s going to be a project bag. With a lof of bobble-stitches.

Back in the summer I bought 3 cakes of Lion Brand Comfy Cotton (it’s a mix of cotton and polyester). But I wasn’t sure what I was going to make with it. I tried a couple of things, but didn’t like how they turned out, so I frogged. So now I’m working on this. I’ve used about 1 1/2 cakes so far.

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I’m not totally sure how I like it so far. It’s a lot of work, but, it’s pretty mindless. IF it works out, I’ll publish the pattern here for you.

What’s on your hooks this week?

~Amanda~